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Routes in The Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab)

Aenea S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amarillo By Morning S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brachiation Dance S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Don't Mess With Muleshoe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Endymion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goldline S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hyperion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lonestar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Poke Salad Annie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skyline S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Urban Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Rose of Texas S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1998 Savage
Page Views: 3,501 total, 36/month
Shared By: Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Crux is 25 feet from the ground on the first pitch. It's mostly much easier than 5.7. I call it "sustained 5.2." First pitch is a full rope length. NO 80 ft belay here. This route is not a sport climb. It's an adventure route. Designed to be a direct line to the summit. 20 to 30 ft run outs up high. All the other routes have 80 ft belay stations for sport. Lots of ways to get down if you know the area.

Location

Right up the center of Hyperion Slab.

Protection

Quickdraws only. Its fully bolted. Someone added a bolt at the crux. Must've been scared.
Beautiful route, as of 3/19/2016 - most of the bolts were rusted and spinning and had some intresting runouts at the top with some pretty easy climbing.

(was 3 pitches a to the summit as we climbed it. The rap back down took about 3 full rope lengths of 60m) The route to the right of it it (Goldmine) seemed to have new bolts if you prefer that!

regardless, it was an awesome and gentle multipitch. Mar 19, 2016
Fixius
Sherman Oaks, California
  5.7
Fixius   Sherman Oaks, California
  5.7
I recommend rapping down Agua Negro back into the canyon. It's slightly less annoying than whipping your rope down the slab. Oct 22, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7 PG13
A very fine route, with a fun sequence right past the overlap then continuous climbing to the first hanging belay, then eases a couple of notches but more runout, continuous again to the summit. Nov 28, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.7
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.7
There is currently a single bolt, in an inclusion, at the crux of "Hyperion." Seems very solid, once it was tightened down. It protects the crux very well. There is a 2-ring Fixe anchor at 95 ft. to facilitate a single rope rappel with a 60 meter rope. Jun 6, 2011
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
You can rap off with a single rope, but you have to rap over to the belay of Gold Line (To the right) and then make a second rap down to the ground. Jan 24, 2011
randy88fj62  
 
Climbed the 2 pitches on 1\23\11. First belay anchor has 2 bolts, one of which has a spinning hangar. Second pitch was easy and had good bolts at the top. Most of the bolts on this multipitch climb are 5/16" grade 5.
The bolt at the bottom crux / overhang was well positioned and allowed me to lead without any risk.

NOTE: Bring TWO ropes as the first belay station is rather high and cannot be rapped off of with a 70m rope. Jan 24, 2011