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Ephin' Sweet (probable)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 17
votes
Routes in Bikini Buttress Area
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Bubba Glyph T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ephin' Sweet (probable) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pelvic Floor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Redneck Reach T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sandstone Entertainment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown Crack T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Unknown Thin to OW Crack 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 38.66658, -108.3416 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,736 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | ChadARobinson on Nov 12, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: The Cabin Wall and The Island are open to climbing!
Details
Per Dave Erbe: these areas are now open per the WCCC and BLM update (The Island will have raptor nesting closures starting on 3/15/26, but the Cabin Wall does not have any nesting closure in place).
Previously: update: per Nolan Robertson: the land was not public yet. It was a transitional phase, being owned by a conservation group leased back to the ranch. Once the lease is completed, it will be public again. Until then, anyone going up to Cabin wall is trespassing. Please be patient, land ownership transitions take time. Anyone is more than welcome to reach out to me for regular progress reports, otherwise, Cabin Wall should be avoided until the situation is completely resolved.
...per Trevor Oman I have been informed by two sources that the land that contains the Cabin Wall and The Island is now public (NOT QUITE YET). Viewing the tract on OnX, it appears The Conservation Fund has purchased or been transferred ownership of the land. Someone more versed in the minutiae of land ownership may want to confirm this, but I wanted to put it out there to get the ball rolling on updating this page.
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Previously: update: per Nolan Robertson: the land was not public yet. It was a transitional phase, being owned by a conservation group leased back to the ranch. Once the lease is completed, it will be public again. Until then, anyone going up to Cabin wall is trespassing. Please be patient, land ownership transitions take time. Anyone is more than welcome to reach out to me for regular progress reports, otherwise, Cabin Wall should be avoided until the situation is completely resolved.
...per Trevor Oman I have been informed by two sources that the land that contains the Cabin Wall and The Island is now public (NOT QUITE YET). Viewing the tract on OnX, it appears The Conservation Fund has purchased or been transferred ownership of the land. Someone more versed in the minutiae of land ownership may want to confirm this, but I wanted to put it out there to get the ball rolling on updating this page.
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Description
This a straight in crack. Per Aaron K: it starts with ringlocks and gradually opens up to fists before pinching down again before the anchor.
4 Comments