Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in The Crack House
|Classic Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Five Fun S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Green Elbow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Honeycomb S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Kacce's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Medicine Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moral Dilemma S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Next Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Nose , The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Scary Jerry S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Sling Blade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Soulshine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Yeller' Feller' T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|unnamed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||Jeff Dopp / Frank Jackson|
|Page Views:||601 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Dopp on Oct 22, 2009|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough|
DescriptionThere are two starts for this route...both are about 10a.
1) Climb an obvious V shaped open chimney for 20' then move right to the base of the big dihedral.
2) Climb jugs on a short slightly overhanging wall directly below the dihedral then pull up onto a short slab split by a finger crack.
Climb the obvious crack/dihedral for 80' to the ledge below a 20' roof.
We have made it 3/4 of the way up the roof but haven't been back to finish it. Soft rock with less than great pro!
We left a #11 Hex as a rap anchor but my guess is that the cord is now part of some nest.
LocationAt the entrance to the Crack House on the west side. The climb follows the prominent right leaning dihedral that can be seen clearly from the ground or the east side of the Canyon. Approach the same as the Nose.
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