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Routes in The Crack House

Classic Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Five Fun S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Green Elbow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeycomb S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kacce's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Medicine Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moral Dilemma S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Next Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nose , The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Scary Jerry S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sling Blade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Soulshine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yeller' Feller' T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
unnamed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jeff Dopp / Frank Jackson
Page Views: 601 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeff Dopp on Oct 22, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

There are two starts for this route...both are about 10a.
1) Climb an obvious V shaped open chimney for 20' then move right to the base of the big dihedral.

2) Climb jugs on a short slightly overhanging wall directly below the dihedral then pull up onto a short slab split by a finger crack.

Climb the obvious crack/dihedral for 80' to the ledge below a 20' roof.

We have made it 3/4 of the way up the roof but haven't been back to finish it. Soft rock with less than great pro!

We left a #11 Hex as a rap anchor but my guess is that the cord is now part of some nest.

Location

At the entrance to the Crack House on the west side. The climb follows the prominent right leaning dihedral that can be seen clearly from the ground or the east side of the Canyon. Approach the same as the Nose.

Protection

Set of stoppers and set of cams.

Photos

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