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Routes in The Crack House

Classic Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Five Fun S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Green Elbow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeycomb S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kacce's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Medicine Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moral Dilemma S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Next Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Scary Jerry S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sling Blade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Soulshine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yeller' Feller' T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
unnamed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 210 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Wheeley, Phil Barkesdale (1985)
Page Views: 274 total · 23/month
Shared By: Kyle Harris on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

A good quick climb to the top with several short pitches.

P1: Locate a short 50' right facing corner at the base of the prow of the cliff line. Take the corner up to a tree and then move left on some face moves to gain the ledge with a good pine tree for a belay.
P2: Move on the ledge about 80' to find a thin left facing crack. Make your way through some tough thin fingers on small gear to gain a wider flake above. Move left on good face holds to top of ledge.
P:3 Move left to a wide chimney and climb up and through on fun holds to the top of ledge
P:4 No fun bushy corner that leads to the top rim. Take off left from the belay position atop the ledge and work through the trees and grass to a dirty corner.

Location

From the Crack House parking take the opposite side of the drainage through the forest just below some rock bands, find a weakness up the hill and then head right towards a large cave like undercut in the rock. the climb begins just up hill to the right from there.

Decent:From the very top rap Trees or questionable tat in dirty corner back to the ledge an work down chimney to ledge above crux pitch. Two rapp rings on right side of ledge will get you down with a 60m rope. work back and rapp the first pitch or climb up and into the Crack House and take trail back to the parking area

Protection

Takes a little of everything but a single rack should do for this climb with the longest pitch being 70'

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