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Routes in Roadside Fling Tower

? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ PG13
Things We Do For Love, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sam Lightner Jr.
Page Views: 275 total, 3/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I'm not sure this deserves its own "route" status.

First, the appraoch. Do not do this in winter when the road is possibly icy.

From the pullout to the east of the tower, there are two approaches. The common, direct approach, is to walk north, then turn west near your hood. I used this approach, but found a shorter way by going back up the road to the west, then turning north after about 20 feet. I saved 8 or 10 steps.

I did the chimney to the left of the original route. From just left of the base of that route, do a 5.2+ move onto the slab and then move left to the obvious chimney. Climb it to the ledge. Forty feet. Near the top you go out a bulge with a hand crack... you can get gear in here (hand size, obviously). The chimney is 5.8ish. Try not to fall in the lower part... it will leave a mark.

From the ledge, or the notch as it is, you can traverse to the last 40 feet of aid on the original route. As Brandewie says, use a "standard desert rack". After only 20 years here, I'm not sure what that means, but in this case it would be .75 thru 5 friends, one of each, and some spare biners for the bolts. You might want some long slings and a tie-off for the second bolt(an ALMOST banged in angle).

At the summit anchors, one of the banged-in angles wobbled a little when I tapped. I thus replaced it and, as usual, replaced the tat with brown chain (mmmmm, yummy). The first ascentionists are welcome to the angle , the tat, and the locking biner if they like anytime they come to moab.

The anchor on the intermediate place-ledge is in a funky place for belaying a second pitch, but you can build one out of 1 inch and 3/4 inch pieces.

Location

East face of the impressive Roadside Fling Tower.

Protection

Standard desert rack, I'm told.

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