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Routes in Roadside Fling Tower

? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ PG13
Things We Do For Love, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Type: Aid, 100 ft
FA: Andy Roberts and Jason Keplo 2000
Page Views: 614 total, 6/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Mar 7, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route packs a fair punch in its 100 feet. Begin at an overhanging crack on the right side of the tower. (when viewed from the road)

Pitch one – Climb awkward C2 off the ground on less than stellar rock to a left facing corner. Continue up the corner to the notch at C2/A1. The anchor situation here is grim. There is a faded sling attached to what is presumably an anchor at the notch but the anchor itself is buried beneath a pile of rock and dirt that has fallen on it since the FA. I built an uninspiring anchor and decided to just clip it and continue on to the top. I had major rope drag so plan accodingly.

Pitch Two – Climb up and right past a bolt and a piton to a horizontal crack system that takes you out onto the face and leads to the summit. C2

Protection

Standard Desert Rack
A few baby angles? (in case any fixed pins are missing)
A couple screamers
Double Ropes?
Matt and Bill did the FFA of this tower via Sam's first pitch variation up the chimney which obviously had already been freed. The second pitch went at 5.11c. After they came down I toproped the original first pitch and felt it was 5.11b. Aug 13, 2013