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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Echo Rock Area
> Echo Cove
> Ben Dover Face
The Pincher
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 66
votes
Routes in Ben Dover Face
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Ben Dover S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eileen Dover S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jack Mioff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pincher, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seymour Butts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02545, -116.15859 |
| FA: | (TR) Rondo Powell, 1994; First Lead: Chris Miller, July 2000 |
| Page Views: | 2,786 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Russ Walling on Sep 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is just right of Ben Dover.
The entire wall is sort of a confused mess of bolts and squeeze jobs, this one probably being the worst offender. Basically take the easiest way up the wall, using whatever jugs may appear.
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