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Routes in Ben Dover Face

Ben Dover S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eileen Dover S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pincher, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Todd Gordon and Bob Gaines, 1994
Page Views: 1,274 total, 13/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route takes the left most line of bolts on the wall. The bolts sprayed into this wall are semi confusing, and I found the second bolt real hard to clip. If you move slightly to the left into a broken corner, the moves are easier on worse rock. At the top, you can move left to a slightly easier top out, or move right to a very easy top out, or go straight up for a contrived and harder top out. The climbing is good, but contrived, and the moves can be interesting if you pick and use the nice jugs.


This route is around the corner to the left of Fun Stuff, on the left end of the formation, just right of a broken corner. The obvious line of bolts and chalk.

These routes have anchors at the top or you can down climb to climbers left.


3 bolts, anchors (all 3/8"). Anchors on top are well back from the lip.


Phil Esra  
No idea why it is "contrived"? Did it on TR and took a direct line to the top, which seemed intuitive and well chalked. Maybe the clips feel unnecessarily hard? Steep, short, fun. Mar 15, 2015
johnnydanger   California
Has Large Rap Hangers!!! Great climb on good holds. High pump factor. Oct 21, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Short route, but packs a punch and well worth doing. Unlike it's neighbor, this isn't a one move wonder.... Feb 2, 2013
An unusual but fun climb. First time I've ever legitimately used a knee bar. Bolts are weirdly placed, hardest moves are getting off the deck. The anchor up top does NOT have rap rings on it, just hangars, and its pretty far back from the edge. I would just rap down the bolts over The Pincher. Mar 1, 2012
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
The leftmost line of bolts (with tan hangers) - three bolts to Metolius rap hangers a bit too far back at the top. Numerous holds have broken off since the FA which may make clipping some of the bolts harder than orginally intended. Sep 16, 2009
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
When I did this route well over a decade ago, I remember a couple of the bolts being wierdly placed. Sep 15, 2009