Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 650 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Maurice Horn, Andrew Carson|
|Page Views:||632 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Carson on Aug 31, 2009|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is an interesting route with good climbing, although the approach is a little rough. It's more fun than Sidewinder, and makes an overall shorter day than the northeast face routes. The first pitch is probably the crux, and each pitch has good climbing. Only the belay at the top of the third pitch was somewhat awkward, and it wouldn't be hard to find a better one by not running it out to near the end of the rope. The final overhang is a little scary, with scant pro off the deck, but it eases quickly. Scrambling to the summit has one mild 5th class stretch that is a little trickier on the downclimb.
Climb the dogleg crack and traverse left to another crack at the dogleg. Continue to a bush and belay. Follow a right-facing corner, then a left-facing corner, to a big ledge. Go right on the ledge and belay below a wide crack/chimney. Climb this and continue up a wide chimney leading to a right-facing corner. Step left onto an enjoyable face which leads to a "V" below a large roof. Climb the left side of the "V" and belay shortly above. Scramble to the summit, with some short 4th/5th class sections.