Type: Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: George,Joanne Urioste, Joe Herbst
Page Views: 7,497 total · 41/month
Shared By: meo on Mar 18, 2007
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

I climbed this route with Killer Killis and never lacked for conversation:)

1st pitch goes up a right-facing flake with a bolt about 20 feet above the top of the flake. Three bolts in all. 150ft

2nd pitch goes straight up following numerous bolts. Be careful some hollow flakes but you can pick your way safely. 160ft

3rd pitch follow corner to a left-facing corner. 130ft

4th pitch goes straight up to a finger crack. Near the top take the crack on right 30 feet to bolted anchor, will be on your left on the dihedral. 160ft

5th pitch up to a ledge with some large bushes. 150ft

6th pitch fly up easy terrain to the top of summit. 120ft

All anchors are bolted with the exception of the summit. There you'll find a cordelette around a tree with fixed nuts. Rappel using two 55 M ropes.

This climb took us 4 hours to ascend and descend. The approach took us 3 hours in and 3 hours out. The approach is tricky and requires high exposed scrambling. We saw and got very near a herd of Big Horn Sheep which got spooked and scrambled away above us creating an avalanche of rock. BE CAREFUL!

Location

Approach as Black Velvet Canyon taking first dirt road on left to head towards Mud Springs Canyon. Park and head into canyon going for vegetated break in cliff band on right side. Look for cairns to avoid B W 4 (the bushwhack sys.)Go up and right and then back left on ledges then down slabs to top of water fall slabs. From there take the right larger gully up to a point where you can scramble up steep slabs to ledges. Go up and right and then back left to get to base of climb along a ramp. Look for right-facing flake of first pitch. Climb starts off a window-box-like bench. You can scramble down the same way or scramble down right to same large gully you came up before, but further in. You'll encounter large boulder hopping with one requiring a rappel. (fixed sling). There are numerous cairns; thanks to Killis for pointing the way.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot with doubles from .5" to 2" Camalots. Small gear required for thin cracks also. We found ballnutz useful.

Photos