All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Mud Spring Canyon > Global Peak

Chuckwalla 21

Name: Chuckwalla 21
Rating: 3.3

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13

Routes in Global Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chuckwalla 21 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Horn/Carson T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Sidewinder, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	36.02717, -115.47238
FA:	George,Joanne Urioste, Joe Herbst
Page Views:	8,528 total · 36/month
Shared By:	meo on Mar 18, 2007
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

I climbed this route with Killer Killis and never lacked for conversation:)

1st pitch goes up a right-facing flake with a bolt about 20 feet above the top of the flake. Three bolts in all. 150ft

2nd pitch goes straight up following numerous bolts. Be careful some hollow flakes but you can pick your way safely. 160ft

3rd pitch follow corner to a left-facing corner. 130ft

4th pitch goes straight up to a finger crack. Near the top take the crack on right 30 feet to bolted anchor, will be on your left on the dihedral. 160ft

5th pitch up to a ledge with some large bushes. 150ft

6th pitch fly up easy terrain to the top of summit. 120ft

All anchors are bolted with the exception of the summit. There you'll find a cordelette around a tree with fixed nuts. Rappel using two 55 M ropes.

This climb took us 4 hours to ascend and descend. The approach took us 3 hours in and 3 hours out. The approach is tricky and requires high exposed scrambling. We saw and got very near a herd of Big Horn Sheep which got spooked and scrambled away above us creating an avalanche of rock. BE CAREFUL!

Location

Approach as Black Velvet Canyon taking first dirt road on left to head towards Mud Springs Canyon. Park and head into canyon going for vegetated break in cliff band on right side. Look for cairns to avoid B W 4 (the bushwhack sys.)Go up and right and then back left on ledges then down slabs to top of water fall slabs. From there take the right larger gully up to a point where you can scramble up steep slabs to ledges. Go up and right and then back left to get to base of climb along a ramp. Look for right-facing flake of first pitch. Climb starts off a window-box-like bench. You can scramble down the same way or scramble down right to same large gully you came up before, but further in. You'll encounter large boulder hopping with one requiring a rappel. (fixed sling). There are numerous cairns; thanks to Killis for pointing the way.