Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and Bob D'Antonio, 2007
Page Views: 1,882 total · 17/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Aug 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


This outstanding route climbs the steep arete on the far uphill end of the Icebox. It starts on a low overhang and climbs up a slab to the steep prow. Creativity will no doubt be an asset on this climb - the beta is surprisingly hard to figure out.


This is on the far right, uphill end of of the Icebox. It's the third route from the end on the right side of the wall.


8 bolts and lowering anchors.


Good route, yep. But you'll have to wait for the name and grade until the new Elevenmile Canyon guidebook that Bob D'Antonio and I are doing comes out next spring.... Sep 2, 2009
First ascent by Brian Shelton and Bob D'Antonio, 2007. Aug 27, 2010
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
With more traffic, this climb will be four full stars. The crux arete is mostly clean where you need it, and the holds have been cleaned up as of the date of this post. Get after it; this is probably one of the best lines on the wall. Do not read on if you do not want beta! The bird's nest is still present on the ledge before the anchors; be careful where you grab! It has not been inhabited for what appears to be a while...another detail of note is that the arete is maybe a bit over-bolted, and the middle draw can be skipped during the send go to save time with a completely safe fall. Hanging the draw helps in working the moves and finding the holds. Have fun!! Sep 11, 2012
Mark Rolofson
Mark Rolofson  
Great route, except grainy, scaly rock still rains down on the overhung arete. Because the start, past 1st bolt & small bulge, is a slab, the belayer ends up in the line of fire. So definitely wear glasses or safety goggles to avoid an eye injury. It is best for the belayer to move downhill 15-20 feet after the leader reaches the 4th bolt. Clip out of the 1st bolt to keep the rope line straight. I dislodged a small peice above 5th bolt that landed on Kirk Miller's forehead leaving a small cut about 3/8" long. Luckily, it didn't land in his eye.
This route has excellent, powerful movement from the 4th bolt to the anchor. Unfortunately the issue of rock raining down on the belayer detracts and I don't agree with Ben Schmitt's 4 star rating in the new 11 Mile Canyon guidebook. This climb may be unique for a .12a in this canyon, but it doesn't compare to many 4 star routes in Colorado. Sep 23, 2012
nate post
nate post   Silverthorne
Great climb! Definitely unique for Elevenmile. Mostly clean, I sent a little bit of choss raining down on my first go but only because I got to far left with my feet while desperately trying to clip the 6th bolt. I got the redpoint on the second go, and I found out just as Zane says it's easier to just climb through and skip the middle bolt on the arete and clip the next one from the bomber ledge. The fall is still quite safe without that bolt. Aug 24, 2013

I agree with Chris' comment about it being tricky to figure out. My first time on it, I had a hard time figuring out clipping, how to stay out of the rope, etc. I didn't really like it. As I figured it all out, it turned out to be a pretty good route. I thought it was fairly tough. Mark's comments about the rock quality are accurate, I dumped quite a bit of kitty litter on my belayer.

I don't think skipping the middle bolt on the steep section is a good idea. It seemed like it was slabby with pillars below, and you are in kind of a funky position for the crux. Just seemed like you could come off weird and have a bad time. This clip is actually pretty easy if you figure out the best stance. Jul 27, 2015