[Hide Comment] Good route, yep. But you'll have to wait for the name and grade until the new Elevenmile Canyon guidebook that Bob D'Antonio and I are doing comes out next spring.... Sep 2, 2009

[Hide Comment] First ascent by Brian Shelton and Bob D'Antonio, 2007. Aug 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] With more traffic, this climb will be four full stars. The crux arete is mostly clean where you need it, and the holds have been cleaned up as of the date of this post. Get after it; this is probably one of the best lines on the wall. Do not read on if you do not want beta! The bird's nest is still present on the ledge before the anchors; be careful where you grab! It has not been inhabited for what appears to be a while...another detail of note is that the arete is maybe a bit over-bolted, and the middle draw can be skipped during the send go to save time with a completely safe fall. Hanging the draw helps in working the moves and finding the holds. Have fun!! Sep 11, 2012

[Hide Comment] Great route, except grainy, scaly rock still rains down on the overhung arete. Because the start, past 1st bolt & small bulge, is a slab, the belayer ends up in the line of fire. So definitely wear glasses or safety goggles to avoid an eye injury. It is best for the belayer to move downhill 15-20 feet after the leader reaches the 4th bolt. Clip out of the 1st bolt to keep the rope line straight. I dislodged a small peice above 5th bolt that landed on Kirk Miller's forehead leaving a small cut about 3/8" long. Luckily, it didn't land in his eye.
This route has excellent, powerful movement from the 4th bolt to the anchor. Unfortunately the issue of rock raining down on the belayer detracts and I don't agree with Ben Schmitt's 4 star rating in the new 11 Mile Canyon guidebook. This climb may be unique for a .12a in this canyon, but it doesn't compare to many 4 star routes in Colorado. Sep 23, 2012

[Hide Comment] Great climb! Definitely unique for Elevenmile. Mostly clean, I sent a little bit of choss raining down on my first go but only because I got to far left with my feet while desperately trying to clip the 6th bolt. I got the redpoint on the second go, and I found out just as Zane says it's easier to just climb through and skip the middle bolt on the arete and clip the next one from the bomber ledge. The fall is still quite safe without that bolt. Aug 24, 2013

[Hide Comment] I agree with Chris' comment about it being tricky to figure out. My first time on it, I had a hard time figuring out clipping, how to stay out of the rope, etc. I didn't really like it. As I figured it all out, it turned out to be a pretty good route. I thought it was fairly tough. Mark's comments about the rock quality are accurate, I dumped quite a bit of kitty litter on my belayer.

I don't think skipping the middle bolt on the steep section is a good idea. It seemed like it was slabby with pillars below, and you are in kind of a funky position for the crux. Just seemed like you could come off weird and have a bad time. This clip is actually pretty easy if you figure out the best stance. Jul 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] Four stars within Elevenmile standards, IMO. I climbed this last summer (2019), and it seemed clean and solid (no birds nests or kitty litter). I did not send this route. However, after hanging the draws and looking at the beta, I would skip the middle draw on the crux arete, since I could reach the next draw from the clipping stance for that one anyways. The fall from that spot would be clean with a proper belay. Super fun route and unique for the area! Definitely give it a go. Mar 30, 2020