Early Access
| Type: | Sport, 35 ft (11 m) |
| GPS: | 39.98144, -105.30143 |
| FA: | B. Demallie, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 895 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
A tough line with tough holds that are tough to see. It was traditionally rated 11b, but even wired, the climb would be substantially harder. I find that Demallie edging routes generally are.
Climb up non-trivial moves to the first bolt. The opening moves are either a thin boulder problem or stepping up off a rock behind the climb... clip the first bolt, then make increasingly difficult moves off of smaller and more hidden holds until the 3rd bolt at the crux. Decipher that, and climb up over the top to reach the summit bolts, which require 2-foot draws to lower off.
A person who likes very small holds might perhaps like this route more than me. I found it reminiscent in style and difficulty to the lower part of 'Camouflage' on Rincon in Eldo (5.12-).



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