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Routes in Spelunk Spire

Condi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dermatome T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gandhi T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Central Station T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Dogs New Trick T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V5 6C
Paper Training T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Cat's Hot Licks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sky Shot T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wrist Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Brink, Mike Duncan, Rob Kelman, 2004
Page Views: 718 total · 6/month
Shared By: Christina kalb on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This is a typical Vedauwoo 5.6. The route starts left of the tree and the roofs shown in the guidebook (Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming). You can see a beautiful but short open book, with parallel cracks at the left end of the wall. Climb the open book and move left to belay under a large roof with a tricky anchor. Note that in 2009, there was a DEATH rappel anchor set at the top (webbing around a hollow, small rock). If you don't want to die on this rappel, I suggest traversing into the small, "slabby," flaring chimney and continue moving right after this chimney to a second flaring, wide crack until you get to an obvious topout. Here you can head left into an arduous downclimb. Per Tyler Knaebel, there are now (September 2016) rap anchors to the right before the roof.


A standard rack will do fine with the addition of a 4" cam.


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Kyle Anderson
Payson, AZ
Kyle Anderson   Payson, AZ
This was a fun route for sure. I thought I was disappointed with the fact that the opening dihedral is not as long as I envisioned, but you can continue to meander up the wall from there for a fun time. Avoid the Death Rappel.... Aug 24, 2009
There are now rap anchors to the right before the roof. Sep 19, 2016

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