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Routes in Spelunk Spire

Condi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dermatome T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gandhi T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Central Station T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Dogs New Trick T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V5 6C
Paper Training T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Cat's Hot Licks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sky Shot T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wrist Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: decades ago, FFA Harper, Schmidt, and Lossner, '94
Page Views: 106 total · 2/month
Shared By: Skip Harper on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The topo shows the NW face of Spelunk Spire. It is the highpoint of the formation. 'Sky Shot' is shown as #1 on the topo.

It starts in the depths of the large, centrally located alcove and goes near vertical up the middle of the spire. Referring to Figure 2, a faint blue line is slightly offset from the actual crack line and follows the route closely. The start (probably the crux) is establishing finger tip liebacks in a distinct thin, rising crack found where the left (east) wall and roof of the alcove join. Be prepared to slam in two or three small cams (#1 or 1.5 or equivalents) along the way as it becomes more strenuous and 'feet' seem to disappear. A surprisingly good hand jam is found as one turns the 'roof', giving ample time for a good cam placement. The difficulty eases up somewhat from here, and it goes like this: hands to fingers to hands to near offwidth with a finish on nearly unprotected gnarly face.

Take a full rack, making sure to save a couple of #3.5 Camalots (or equivalent) for the wide crack underlying the final face finish. Belay at top on gear (approximately 65 feet off the deck).

The descent is by downclimbing the backside of the spire, generally trending eastward. Give 'Sky Shot' a go, it's a true Vedauwoo 'outback' experience.

Location [Suggest Change]

This ascends the far northeast face of the formation (see the topo).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bring a full rack, maybe doubling on smaller cams (1.5 & 2), being sure to save a couple of medium large cams (3.5) for up high.

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