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Routes in Spelunk Spire

Condi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dermatome T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gandhi T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Central Station T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Dogs New Trick T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a V3- 6A
Paper Training T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Cat's Hot Licks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sky Shot T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wrist Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Scarpelli and Piana, '89
Page Views: 197 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Aug 26, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


Wrist Ranger is a crack worth walking for. The crack splits a short face intersecting a dike and another crack along the way. WR is located on the lower right (SE) face of Spelunk Spire formation (away from the spire). Climb the crack, at around 3-4 inches most of the way with a few smaller constrictions. With my non-Scarpellian sized hands this was mostly a rattly fist crack - not a handcrack as called by some literature on the subject. Great rock. When you hit the top of the crack and the arete, set some bomber pro (1.5-2 inches) for your second and run it out up the easy slab to a tree atop the formation. Scramble off to the right side of the cliff, veer a little left for the easiest decent. This is a good line, but beware to those climbers breaking into the grade I'd recommend bringing several #4 and #3 Camalots.


Gear to 4 inches.


Jeremy Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
Jeremy Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
There are now anchors at the top of the crack (before the runout slab). Thanks to whoever put those in! Sep 17, 2007
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
I found the crack more like fists to off fists. I had a hard time finding solid fist jams up near the top, but there is enough good feet that they were not needed. Aug 16, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Agreed, mostly a fist crack with a couple offwidth-type moves. Great climb! Aug 31, 2012
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
Beware, small handed folks! This felt MUCH harder (near impossible) to me than any other 9 at the Voo. I could rarely get any sort of fist, mostly butterflies. Sep 4, 2018

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