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Routes in Spelunk Spire

Condi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dermatome T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gandhi T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Central Station T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Dogs New Trick T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V5 6C
Paper Training T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Cat's Hot Licks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sky Shot T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wrist Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Pete Takeda and Tom Parchman
Page Views: 65 total, 0/month
Shared By: P Takeda on Aug 7, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This route follows the obvious double overhanging corner via a right trending crack. The crack goes from offwidth to hands to fingers, finally becoming a flared fist-sized crack above the lip (crux). As with many Vedauwoo routes, the crux has an inobvious solution -- this in the form of some hidden edges. Above lip, angle dramatically kicks back for fifteen feet to the belay. Start by traversing into the crack from the right on a horizontal ledge 15 feet above the base of the alcove. Belay on the ledge (# 1 Camalot for belay).


This route is located in a shaded alcove below (and directly South) of Spelunk Spire. The clean-cut corner is visible from the trail on the left end of the discontinuous cliff band, about 200 feet left (West) of Wrist Ranger. Gandhi (5.9+) is the corner immediately right.


Single set of cams to #4 Camalot. A #6 Friend is nice to protect the opening chimney moves. Bring extra hand-sized gear for belay about 25 feet above the lip. Bolt belay should be added soon as this is a potential rope shredder.


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