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Routes in Ambaria

Sudwestkante S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 480 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Heinz Lothar Stutte + Dietrich Hasse 8/13/1976
Page Views: 1,209 total · 12/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 9, 2009
Admins: WAGbag

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Description

Every time we walked by Ambaria, we saw climbers on this route. It turns out that it was for a good reason. Sudwestkante is relatively easy, but also lots of fun. This is a great introduction to climbing in Meteora. There's an easy approach, a small cave at the base of the climb to store your gear, the climbing is enjoyable and the view from the summit is great. Don't forget to sign the summit register while you're up there.

You must bring double ropes to get down from this route. Most of the pitches are more than 40m. You will not be able to get down on a single rope

P1 5.7 with 5 or 6 bolts. 35m.

P2 5.4 with one bolt. 45m.

P3 5.5 with three bolts. 45m.

P4 Fourth to easy 5th class. Very low angle. 35m.

(Thanks for the info Brian)

Listed as V under the UIAA system.

Location

The route starts up the southwestern nose of Ambaria. This is best illustrated by the included photos.

Protection

Bolts to bolted anchors. The top pitches are low angle, easy and have very few or no bolts.

Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7
Some beta on the individual pitches:

P1 5.7 with 5 or 6 lead bolts. 35m.

P2 5.4 with one lead bolt. 45m.

P3 5.5 with three lead bolts. 45m.

P4 Fourth to easy 5th class. Very low angle. 35m.

We noted on the rappels, that a guided group "disappeared" below the 3rd rap. Then, they reappeared on the other side of the ridge. What they did, was, rappel into the hole on the first pitch (from the ground) of the route Ziegenfad/Sudwand-Diagonale. Then they went through the tunnel, and rappelled from the hole on the other side of the ridge. Pretty cool! Dec 16, 2009

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