Weg der Tramper

Found in the Stutte & Hasse 2000 guide as UIAA grade V.

P1: 25m, 4 bolts: This pitch diagonals up and right to a belay in the huge corner. Start with 2 new bolts straight up (crux), 1 new ring bolt up and little right, then traverse right and down a bit across a ledge. Step around a rib at the right hand end of the ledge to an old ring bolt; then up and right to a 2 ring bolt (1 new + 1 old) belay in a bad-rock scoop in the corner. This alternate start is shown as the 1st pitch of Südwand-Diagonale in the Stutte & Hasse 2000 guide. The 1st 3 bolts are surely newer though and part of a route that continues up and left of Weg der Tramper.

P2: 35m, 4 bolts + 1 thread: This pitch diagonals up and left following the corner. Move up past 2 new bolts to a thread to 2 more new bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

P3: 30m, 5 bolts: This pitch again moves up and left. Start moving left and a little up from the anchor to a new bolt then left again to an overlap with a bolt. From there, 3 more bolts trend up and left to a Dolomite style single mega ring bolt belay.

P4: 20m, 1 bolt: Cruxy to a large foot cobble with 1 ~homemade hanger bolt above (see photo) to a bit more cruxy ground that breaks to lower angle with larger holds to an anchor with 2 spread ring bolts.

P5: 30m, no pro: Run it out to the top anchor staying just left of a precarious tied off boulder. The anchor is compromised of 1 ring bolt and 1 glue in.

Leave the ropes at the anchor and walk up to the summit for great views all around, especially of Pixari and the mini monastery and cave platforms on its west face.

3 raps: 30m to the P4 ring bolts. Then 45m skipping the P3 ring bolt belay to find a pair of ring bolts below. Then to the ground. We used 60m twins for this but a 50m pair per the European style would be perfect.

On the west face, just left of the Southwest Arete route is a large left-facing, left arching corner. This forms the bulk of the line. From the parking area, there is a trail across the road and a bit south back towards Kalabaka. At first the trail is just open slab, but if you stay on the left hand edge, eventually a dirt trail winds up and left into bushes. The traditional start is up and right from where the dirt trail forks left. We used a left variant start however, found by following the dirt trail left a short ways. This start is marked by two bolts in quick succession for Meteora and is down and right of the bush high point.