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Routes in Second Wind Wall

Deer Thirty T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deer in the Headlights S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gale Force S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Deluge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hack Job S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Water Mark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Honeymoon is Over, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
My Empire of Dirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One for the Doctor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over Forty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pugnacious S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Refrigerator Chimney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rough Drafts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Wind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shorty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunday Morning Coming Down S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Dihedral T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Super Streak S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Vice Gripped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weakened Warrior aka Super Arete S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
When the Levee Breaks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman 6/24/09
Page Views: 112 total, 1/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 28, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

From the anchors atop Deer in the Headlights, pull over a small roof and make a juggy hand-traverse left until you pull onto a stance beneath the upper right-facing dihedral. Pull past some hollow flakes in the lower corner (I took the prybar to them and they seem ok, but be ginger anyway, you can entirely avoid them on big edges to the right if you want), the upper corner is steep clean fingercrack laybacking with decent gear. It's like a much milder version of Vice Gripped. Either backclean or use an extended runner on the third bolt to reduce rope drag.

Location

The 2nd pitch above Deer in the Headlights.

Protection

4 bolts, small-med stoppers, set of cams #.4-#1 BD, chains.

Photos

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Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.9
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  5.9
Fun second pitch! Crack takes gear fairly well, took medium sized stoppers and a single set of cams from #.5 - 2, placed a stopper down low and a #.5 up higher. Could have placed another #.5 or #1 if I wanted to really sew up the crack. Sep 12, 2016