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Routes in The Comp Wall
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Companeros T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Vida T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Competition S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Question of Balance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shake 'n' Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shop and Compare T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Splitter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight outta Compton T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Women's Semi-Qualifier S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 7,612 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks. The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.
P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip, the rope my force you gear into the crack. Then enjoy 60ft of splitter crack around the #2 friend size to a 2 bolt anchor.
P2: Pitch 2 traverses to the right into a large hands fist crack crack to another 2 bolt anchor.
Rap with one 60M rope.
P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip, the rope my force you gear into the crack. Then enjoy 60ft of splitter crack around the #2 friend size to a 2 bolt anchor.
P2: Pitch 2 traverses to the right into a large hands fist crack crack to another 2 bolt anchor.
Rap with one 60M rope.
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