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Routes in The Comp Wall

Companeros T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Competition S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shop and Compare T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Splitter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Straight outta Compton T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Women's Semi-Qualifier S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,004 total, 48/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks. The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.

P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip, the rope my force you gear into the crack. Then enjoy 60ft of splitter crack around the #2 friend size to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2: Pitch 2 traverses to the right into a large hands fist crack crack to another 2 bolt anchor.

Rap with one 60M rope.

Location

This is the obvious 1" splitter crack to the left of the large overhangs.

Protection

P1: medium hexs, 1 blue alien, 2 green aliens, 2x #0.4, 3 #0.5&0.75, 4-5 #1, 2x #2 camolots.

P2: A good selection of big hands and fist sized protection.
Matthew Colemere
Alpine, Utah
  5.11a
Matthew Colemere   Alpine, Utah
  5.11a
Got to do the first pitch, which was amazing. Like Rob said, there were a lot of hornets around and they appeared to be in the flake. We waited for the shade, then went for it, and they left us alone. It added a little bit of excitement though, that's for sure.
I second that the gear list is too excessive. Single rack, with double in BD .75 and triple in BD 1 should be plenty, with a nice medium sized hex placement down low. Biggest cam placed on route was that BD 1. May 12, 2017
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.11a
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.11a
Awesome climb! Get on it!

The gear listed may be a little excessive. I used singles of BD #0.3-#0.75 (plus 1 yellow and 1 red alien), 3 BD #1s, 1 BD #2, two nuts below the crux, and slung a patina dinner plate.

While climbing, I was wishing I had the blue alien. In hindsight, I'm glad I didn't have it since it would have pulled the rope too far into the crack. The crux itself isn't that bad. It's the post-crux pump that will get you! Sep 29, 2013
JF1
Las Vegas
5.10d
JF1   Las Vegas
5.10d
Rob,
Why spray the splitter when you can spray on here all day? Jun 13, 2013
As of April 28, 2013 there was a sizable hornets nest under the obvious flake about 10-15 feet up the route. Being allergic to hornets, bees and the like, I decided to move on. I'd love to get on this beautiful climb someday. If only I had a can of spray... Apr 30, 2013
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
Can't wait to go back and do the second pitch. Had a lot of fun on that route. Going to force myself to climbing again only using the crack the whole way up. That will make it tough. Sep 4, 2012
JF1
Las Vegas
5.10d
JF1   Las Vegas
5.10d
Great route, cool climbing and don't forget the second pitch which has fixed anchors, splitter as well. Jul 30, 2012
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
  5.11-
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
  5.11-
I found this to be one of the best routes I found in COR or Castle (although I would love to go back to look at the .12 on Bradseick Spire since I didn't get a chance to look at it on my last trip. Jul 1, 2011
Fun route, but I don't think its any harder than 11a (Harvest at the COR felt harder at 10d). I would suggest more small gear and less big gear. Once you get to the #1 Camalot size crack its pretty easy. Cams work fine down low (0.5 and 0.75 really low, then some small TCUs before and after the roof). Sep 29, 2009