Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,612 total · 44/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route

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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details


This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks. The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.

P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip, the rope my force you gear into the crack. Then enjoy 60ft of splitter crack around the #2 friend size to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2: Pitch 2 traverses to the right into a large hands fist crack crack to another 2 bolt anchor.

Rap with one 60M rope.


This is the obvious 1" splitter crack to the left of the large overhangs.


P1: medium hexs, 1 blue alien, 2 green aliens, 2x #0.4, 3 #0.5&0.75, 4-5 #1, 2x #2 camolots.

P2: A good selection of big hands and fist sized protection.