Avg: 3.7 from 48 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,140 total · 46/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Jun 14, 2009|
|Admins:||grk10vq, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn|
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
See this link from the Access Fund for additional info and maps: accessfund.org/open-gate-bl…
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip, the rope my force you gear into the crack. Then enjoy 60ft of splitter crack around the #2 friend size to a 2 bolt anchor.
P2: Pitch 2 traverses to the right into a large hands fist crack crack to another 2 bolt anchor.
Rap with one 60M rope.