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Routes in The Comp Wall

Companeros T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Competition S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shop and Compare T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Splitter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Straight outta Compton T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Women's Semi-Qualifier S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,937 total, 48/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This is a great journey through steep patina plates, cracks, and edges.

P1: Follow the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack. Use a finger/hand crack (gear) to reach the first bolt. Angle back right to reach the steep juggy face above.

P2: Continue up the wall with more steep climbing to belay on a good ledge. A small wire could be placed after the last bolt, but it is easier here.

P3: Angle left to hit the arete for the final bolted pitch.

I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 with a 70M rope. A 60M rope would also probably work. You will need to back clean a couple clips and use long runners on a few key bolts to reduce drag, though.

Location

Start up the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack

Protection

Light rack to 1.5 inches
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Definitely either ignore the first low bolt or place a piece instead and head up the groove/crack to the second bolt before mantling over. No need for cams except for this perfect #2 placement. Nov 10, 2014
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is a great route, 3 stars at least! Clipping the first bolt was the crux for me and I was very happy to have a #2 C4 to throw in as I worked up the crack to clip the bolt. You are jamming in the crack with your hand and foot and it's just not very secure. Stay in the crack until the second bolt and then mantle onto the face. Otherwise a jug haul the whole way. The 3rd pitch was incredible! Stepping off the chains, out over the abyss, really got my heart going! That alone was worth climbing the route. Sep 21, 2014
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
 
Wow, what a fantastic route. It does not get any better than this at the grade at either City or Castles. Leave your cams in the car (unless you plan on doing Splitter, too), and only bring a handful of medium nuts to protect the opening moves to the first bolt. After that, it's well protected with bolts all the way to the top of the formation. The rock is steep and of uber-good quality on this one! Sep 17, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Fun route! Only gear I used was a single .5 camalot twice on the first pitch. Once before the first bolt and then another temp placement before clipping the 4th bolt. I used long slings on 2nd & 3rd bolts and had no rope drag. 1st half of last pitch is superb! Oct 6, 2011
Did this route last week. Very fun and a great last pitch. I could see where a little gear could be used at the top of the second pitch but probably not needed as the climbing eases up. May 18, 2011
Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
Agreed, a number 2 camalot was nice before clipping the first bolt. Then I removed it after clipping the bolt for less rope drag. No other gear necessary. A fantastic sport route. Sep 23, 2010
Carl Rene Pelletier
Jackson, Wyoming
  5.10a
Carl Rene Pelletier   Jackson, Wyoming
  5.10a
I'm not sure that a light rack is necessary. Getting to the first bolt a bit tricky...I guess that you could place a #2 cam in the crack before the first bolt, after that no need for gear...in my opinion. I carried a light rack only to have it clang around behind me throughout the climb. There is a place that you could place a #1 or #2 on the second pitch (it's a ways between bolt, but the climbing is pretty easy). I think that this was a really cool climb and very well bolted. Sep 30, 2009