Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Love Shack Wall

(0.5) Cayman Nights S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
(02) Throwin’ the Hoola Girl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
(05) Leapin’ Lizzards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 347 total · 3/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: John Byrnes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Stick clip the first bolt and follow the obvious line of massive jugs. Start with a few difficult moves to the right of the first bolt then the climb continues straight up with massive moves and throws between good holds. As you get closer to the top of the climb the holds get smaller. After clipping the final bolt before the chains pull the tooth, and make your way through some thin moves to the anchors.

Location

Easy to see as the jugs are ginormous! Go to the center of a nice belay platform and look up. Two climbs to the left of Hoola Girl.

Protection

7 TITANIUM bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
Last route of the trip. Great fun - athletic and powerful. The low crux would be much tougher for a short person (12a?). One of my favorite routes of the grade, anywhere. The route goes into the shade around 4:30 in March, but the sun will be in your eyes until 5:30/6:00. Great route for a sunset send followed by some stargazing.

WARNING - DETAILED BETA BELOW


Crux is the first three or four moves to the huge jug at the lip, probably a V3/V4 boulder problem. Once you get the huge jug there is a full out no hands rest in the hueco (left kneebar, painful, pad recommended).

The upper face is peppered with smaller cruxes, but there are enough rests and good holds to keep the difficulty around 11- to the top. Mar 8, 2015