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Routes in Duck Wall

Endless Skies S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Index Air Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Fire T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Making the little ducks quack T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Meadow and Spicer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Message to Love S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Planet Caravan T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweets for Manuel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 426 total · 4/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Jun 8, 2009 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This short route is really good. It starts out with a thin corner, followed by a cool traverse, and ending with a short wide section.

Location

Walk off or rap from the tree.

Protection

Gear to 4". chain anchors.

Photos

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Bozeman, Montana
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow   Bozeman, Montana
Fun route. Getting established in the undercling was the crux for me; after you pull around to the flake the climb was a cruise. I thought the pro was great, if you slung it well. The undercling takes a bomber hand-sized cam, and a #3 fit great deep in the flake (definitely get it way back there--wouldn't want to fall on a large cam placed near the thin edge of the flake). Save a #4 for the fist crack up top. Jun 22, 2014
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
 
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
 
As many people have mentioned, there are excellent feet at the undercling/traverse section, and I will echo that point. One thing I struggled with is the pro once you pull the undercling roof section: all my #3s were tipped out and my #4s were horribly overcammed and likely to get stuck. I think it's worth mentioning that a 3.5 cam would protect the upper flake section much more adequately.

Furthermore, extend your pieces on the traverse with draws. A piece of mine walked and it was a b**ch to retrieve. No #5s are needed for this route. Jun 9, 2014
Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
 
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
 
This was a really nice climb. I would recommend it for sure, I found the flake to be easier than I expected, but the start harder.

Cams - 4" Oct 4, 2012
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
It looks steep and strenuous, but there are good footholds. Oct 9, 2011
jpbrastad
Seattle, WA
 
jpbrastad   Seattle, WA
 
New (and welcome) rap chains were in place on 6/30/2009. Jul 1, 2009

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