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Routes in Main Area

300 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Direct Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gutterball T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intro Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kingpin S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Generation T C2+
Never Again T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Velvet Jones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: TDA & Shane Durfee
Page Views: 127 total, 1/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on May 23, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

P1-The climb starts off at about 5.7 clipping a few bolts leading to the corner. After the first step where a bolt ladder (My Generation) breaks out right, stay in the corner the crux is about 2/3 up the pitch where it steepens up.( I remember liebacking) and ends at a good ledge and anchor. 5.9+

P2- is quite a bit easier and stays in the corner for about 65 feet to the top of the wall. 5.6-ish

This route was probably done long ago. When TDA first walked up there he found a couple of soft iron pitons lying in the sand at the base. One which was fixed on the route to the right (My Generation) and held at least one whipper!

Location

The big east facing corner is Velvet Jones. A walk off to the north wrapping back east will get you down. There might be a top anchor for rapping.

Great warm up for choss climbing.

Protection

A full rack to #4 camalot is nice. Slings helpful.

Photos

Corey Stein
OC, CA
 
Corey Stein   OC, CA
 
The first pitch was definitely harder than 5.9. Don't do this route unless you feel comfortable lie-backing easy to mid 5.10s. Oct 7, 2017
Jared R
 
Jared R  
 
We climbed this and replaced the top webbing (Oct. 2009)so it is good for a while now.
Fun Route. I need to go back and Red Point it. Oct 7, 2009