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Routes in Main Area

300 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Direct Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gutterball T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intro Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kingpin S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
My Generation T C2+
Never Again T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Velvet Jones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Nate Brown, Calder Stratford, TDA??? 98 or 99
Page Views: 1,063 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Jul 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Yesssss, more choss

Location

Bowling Alley

Protection

draws

Photos

ZachBradford  
 
Ascends east facing slab on the main wall through 8 bolts to chain anchors. 5.8+ "Crux" at the second bolt the rest of the climb is mostly 5.7. This route may be considered a Cedar classic.

  • *NEVER climb the lower pitch with another party above you. They will be pitching choss off the top.**

Optional second pitch- 5.9
Continue past the chain anchors up slab for 3-4 bolts. You then meet a vertical face. Prepare your self for some serious choss the higher you go. Pass 3 bolts ending on a nice ledge with a anchor that will hold but must be replaced. (May have been replaced July 09?)

I enjoy the pitch due to the view and exposure but if choss scares you then stay clear of this pitch. A helmet for your belayer is a good idea. Sep 3, 2009
Jared R
  5.9-
Jared R  
  5.9-
2nd pitch rappel anchors for King Pin and Direct Route need to be replaced. They are really bad. There is one bomber bolt and 2 scary cemented pins. Half of the cement has eroded out of the holes leaving about an inch or more of the pin exposed. SCARY! The pitch is way fun though. Oct 7, 2009
Jared R
  5.9-
Jared R  
  5.9-
Scott Greenhalgh put up the second pitch solo, with a hand drill. Nice work Scott. Oct 16, 2009
In addition to choss up high, it's 20-25 feet from the last bolt to the anchors on the second pitch. As of last week, those anchors are still poor. On the bright side, there is only one move of 5.9 and it is close to a good bolt. Oct 30, 2013
James Wieman
Southern Utah
James Wieman   Southern Utah
WARNING. Bad anchors on top of the second pitch. I pulled out one of the older ones with little more than a tug yesterday. Two bolts remain at the top. But only one looks solid, with the other looking pretty sketchy. Nov 10, 2013
Scott Greenhalgh
New Hartford, Iowa
Scott Greenhalgh   New Hartford, Iowa
As of August 2, 2016; the second pitch now has an additional lead bolt. It was placed in the most solid looking rock which is in a recess about 7 feet right and 4 feet above the previous bolt. This bolt is not visible to the leader, and you would want to traverse straight right for 7 feet from the last bolt. The anchor also has an additional bolt giving it two solid bolts. Aug 23, 2016
JK- Branin
Southern New Hampshire
  5.9+
JK- Branin   Southern New Hampshire
  5.9+
First pitch feels harder every time I do this... I don't do it often enough to remember specific holds or sequences, but the rock is awful enough and the traffic high enough I wouldn't be at all surprised if we're losing holds. Oct 30, 2016
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9-
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9-
Fun and thin for the crux. This route makes you trust your feet. Jun 18, 2018

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