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Routes in Main Area

300 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Direct Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gutterball T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intro Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kingpin S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
My Generation T C2+
Never Again T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Velvet Jones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Ryan Meeks lead, Brad Kinross seconding 2009
Page Views: 809 total · 8/month
Shared By: Smeekster on Sep 30, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Adventurous offwidth. Slightly loose. Still waiting for a second ascent.

Location [Suggest Change]

About 30 yards to the right of "The Direct Route". Bring Webbing to replace the slung tree.Belay/Rappel off the second healthy looking tree shown in photo for a monster pitch. Super Exciting.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Big Gear. Sling anchor on big juniper tree.

Photos

Jared R  
Looks cool. I need to get some large gear to try it. Nice work Ryan. Sep 30, 2009
Smeekster  
 
Still waiting for a second ascent as far as I know. Mar 6, 2010
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Its great to see that some climbers a.k.a vertical construction workers, are enjoying the bowling alley. What a fun crag. I like that a roadside crag can bring so much adventure. I spent many days pushing myself on this scrappy cliff. Of all the Cedar crags, I feel this place trained and schooled me the most. It prepared me for many useless yet rewarding challenges. I took my first upside down daisy chain fall onto a #0 t.c.u. at the top of the aid route, only because I forgot to unclip from the piece before casting off on a free climbing section to the anchor. Lessons learned, lessons ignored. I added a lower anchor to Gutterball, because I felt the "quality" climbing ended there. As I don't regret lowering the anchor, one must climb past it and continue to the anchor of Kingpin to experience the true adventure of this place. I used to call this place Red Cliffs, until the great Pete Vanslooten kept referring to it as the Bowling Alley. When we, the white harlem crew, landed in Cedar in the mid 90's there were tons of loose bowling ball sized rock here. After many ascents, both sober, drunk, day, night, solo, and group, we managed to clean the place up. I even spend an afternoon blasting the bolts with russetts from a potato gun I found, only to have the bastard backfire in my face charring all that could be charred. Rock Karma. Its funny how such a pile could represent so many good times that I will never forget.

-TDA
Viva White Harlem 1995- Mar 6, 2010

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