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Routes in Filipino Wall
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Aquino T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Cardinal Sin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Exiled T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Granulator, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Imelda's New Shoes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Marcos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Orgasmatron, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Phil E. Pino T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Planetary Motion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Summer School T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02475, -116.17982 |
| FA: | Alan Roberts and Lyman Spitzer, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,204 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Donno on May 8, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Planetary Motion starts in a short, steep hand crack, goes up a low angle, knobby slab and then snakes right, then left, around a bulging headwall to finish on a high thin crack.
Fun Facts: first ascensionist of this route, Lyman Spitzer (1914-1997), made the first ascent of Mount Thor on Nunavut (Baffin Island) and founded the American Alpine Club's Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Climbing Award (now called the "Cutting Edge Grant).
Location
This route is on the far-right end of the Filipino Wall. Both the lower wide crack and the upper thin crack are clearly visible from Lost Horse Road.
Park in the turnout just north of the buttress.
The next routes to the right (False Smooth as Silk, etc.) are covered in the Lower Freeway Wall section.
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