Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Aug. 21, 1898, T.M. Bannon and George A. Buck
Page Views: 5,066 total · 41/month
Shared By: Robert Henderson on Apr 26, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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From Timberline Lk, ascend talus towards the nasty gully that drops south from the east toe of the east ridge. Avoid the gully and move left on ledges and scree as soon as you can. Then follow the natural leftward ascending traverse to the center of the face. After passing through a narrow constriction, ascend slabs and grassy ledges (or snow) to the summit. In early season, exercise caution as steep cliffs lurk below - a slip on snow could be catastrophic.


The approach is by way of the Valley Trail and Stewart Draw from the Death Canyon trailhead accessed by the deeply-rutted Death Canyon turn-off from the Moose-Wilson road, 3.1 miles south of Park headquarters. Low clearance vehicles may have trouble getting all the way to the trailhead.
The route climbs the face above Timberline Lk. Also, this route is the most used descent. If you are skiing or glissading, remember about the cliff band below you.
A reasonable ascent time would be 5-6 hrs from the car.


Ice axe when there is snow.