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Routes in Buck Mt.

East Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
East Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Elevation: 11,938 ft
Page Views: 8,231 total, 78/month
Shared By: Robert Henderson on Apr 26, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder
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Description

Buck Mt. is the southernmost crystalline peak of the Tetons and, as the highest peak south of the Garnet Canyon group, offers stellar views of the southern Tetons as well as the main summits. It is easily climbed from the east but also offers more difficult routes on it's steeper northern or southern faces. Buck is also a favorite ski summit.
Generally, the rock on the popular eastern routes is of poor quality, but the critical sections of the east ridge are solid. Better rock and more adventure is found on the north face and on the infrequently climbed southern routes.

Getting There

Buck Mt. can be approached several ways; the north face is approached by way of the rugged south fork of Avalanche Cyn, the southern and western routes by the Skyline Trail over Static Pk and the "No-Wood" basin. The popular eastern routes are accessed via Stewart Draw as follows:
Hike up the Death Canyon Trail about 3/4 mile until just before the 3rd footbridge. A faint trail (recently relocated) branches off to the right. After a short section through the trees, you begin climbing NW through a large meadow. Continue northward along the base of the foothills, crossing several forested ridges and small streams, navigating confusing detours and horse paths. Stay west and out-of-sight of the main stream from Stewart Draw until the trail veers west into the lower draw. There, you finally cross the main stream near a house-sized boulder. Then the easily-followed trail takes a westerly direction, by-passing a headwall to the north, and eventually reaching a campsite on the east edge of a verdant meadow. From the stream intersection in the meadow, the best progress is made by crossing the northern stream and ascending the wide talus slope to the north around the headwall and then following slabs, talus, scree and boulders west, aiming for Timberline Lake located between Static Pk and Buck Mt.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buck Mt.

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
East Face
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
East Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
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Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
The climber's trail off the death canyon trail to just before timberline lake is well defined and easy to follow. 2 hours TH to lake at a stout hiking pace.

Also for those looking to descend the S ridge to allow for a loop down to static divide and the death canyon switchbacks - the S ridge is straight forward class 3 & 4 to the prominent notch visible from the lake (just north of the tower). From here both descent options (E or W) are poor.

W couloir from the notch starts out as straight forward scrambling but it semi-cliffs out and requires some creative low 5th traversing (skier's R) on loose terrain, linking together narrow ledges and steep steps between them. not recommended.

I later returned and descended the E couloir from the notch and could not find a way to traverse around the E side of the tower to the buck/static saddle. Instead I had to continue down extensive 3rd-4th class downclimbing and traversing on ledges (trend skier's L once you hit the grassy patch in the couloir to adjacent gully, trend back R once the gully cliffs out) all the way down to the bergschrund. some creativity may be required to ascend/get around the bergschrund depending on the size and how late in the summer it is. i would not recommend this route either.

would be better to descend the E face to close to the lake, then trend SW and climb (mix of snow and talus) to the buck-static saddle. Aug 23, 2017

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