Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Aug. 23, 1934 by Ernest Scheef & Heinz Recker
Page Views: 3,666 total · 31/month
Shared By: Robert Henderson on Apr 26, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

From Timberline Lk the whole route is visible. Hike over to the gully that descends south from the eastern toe of the east ridge. The gully is nasty so, after ascending it for 100' or so, exit left on ledges to a gentle bench as per the east face route. From there, one can climb directly to the East Ridge on slabs west of the gully. When the East Ridge is reached, turn left (west) and follow the crest of the ridge to the summit. Small difficulties can often be circumvented to the south. At one point, the ridge narrows to a knife-edge, the most scenic part. Views down the north couloirs (they have been skied!) into Avalanche Cyn inspire care or, for some, a rope. After crossing the narrow spine, the ridge widens and is easy to the summit.
There is loose rock on the route except for the middle portion, but the angle of repose is less than the East Face. It's a fairly safe route if your scrambling skills are up to it.

Location

The route ascends the gently-angled east ridge obvious from the valley floor.
Approach is by way of Stewart Draw to Timberline Lake (see area notes.)
Descend by the loose East Face route or (more fun) downclimb the East Ridge.

Protection

For the novice, a belay might be welcome in a few spots. In early season, an axe and crampons should be carried. Before July, expect the route to be all snow; July is mixed. The amount of snow can be gauged from the valley.

Photos

Anyone have info on how long summiting this would take? I'll be in the area this summer but it will be time sensitive. Seems like a nice day out. Cheers! Jan 6, 2018
Hello Brandon: Did this last summer. It's a big day -- about 5,200 ft. elevation gain and the ridge is pretty airy. However, I highly encourage it. The rock is about as good as it gets and once you get up to the ridge it's pretty moderate (though exposed) scrambling. Class 4 but beyond the exposure not too difficult. We did it in 9 hours including time on the summit (which is also one of those classic summits--nice and small with commanding views). We took the east face down which is nothing special but better for downclimbing. I've done 11 14ers in CO over the past year, and I would rate the East Ridge of Buck as equal to Mt. Sneffels' SW Ridge. It really is not to be missed. 7 days ago