Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,817 total · 32/month
Shared By: cloud on Apr 23, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Day Use Only/No Campfires Details


Sit start on the flake, move up on side pulls. Great climb!


2 Pads, spotter


Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
That last little right-hand undercling is downright brutal. Super fun problem though! Oct 20, 2009
Any comments on how this climbs now vs how it climbed before the starting hold breakages? The first move felt harder than the "crux" move above, and kind of thrutchy today. Maybe I'm missing something? Oct 6, 2013
With good beta the first move went from crux to straightforward for me, I'm not certain the grade has changed much. Dec 23, 2013
I climbed this from matching on the flake on the lower right. In the book it says something about a flexing jug, though i have never seen one and assume it broke shortly after publication of the guidebook. Starting on the flake crimps with a right heel hook and a low left smear, i pulled on and reached up with my right hand to the first good, right side pull. This was definitely cruxy and desperate, and when paired with the upper crux, may be harder than V8. May 31, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Maybe the jug breaking off is why they call it "Busted". May 31, 2014
Eric K
Leavenworth, Washington
Eric K   Leavenworth, Washington
Only a little harder than the shield for me but much more fun. Dec 3, 2016
Tavish Hansen
Seattle, WA
Tavish Hansen   Seattle, WA
The start hold definitely flexes quite a bit. It might be worth someone shooting some epoxy down behind it. Not sure if that is generally accepted (obviously dont make a mess) but this thing is such a classic it would be a shame for that whole start hold to rip off. Mar 25, 2018
Jeremy Tremblay  
Fun line. If you can get the massive heel hook early the only relatively hard move is the first one

youtu.be/s7S6Vb19sk0 Nov 13, 2018