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Routes in The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)
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Alabama Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Alabama Crack Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Harvey Carter? '50s? |
| Page Views: | 2,622 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Apr 7, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
This comment is from Stewart Green from the Nose page: "Around the corner to the left [of the Nose] is "Alabama Crack." There are two starts to it. Climb up and left from the slab below the Nose roof to a belay shelf below Alabama Crack or from the gully below the crack, climb up and right past a couple old fixed Harvey pitons (5.9) to the belay shelf. Jam the crack 50 feet to a [ledge] with a 2-bolt rappel anchor that Brian Shelton and I put in a year ago."
I climbed this today by climbing up to the Nose roof, clipping a blue sling fixed to a piton and wired nut underneath the roof, then traversing left under a nice flake to the large ledge on the corner of the formation and beneath the Alabama. I belayed here off a fixed piton, and a couple cams (1", 1/2") to avoid rope drag for the upper section.
There are some scary loose blocks above the 2-bolt anchor which could seriously injure your belayer or possibly damage the rope if they were dislodged. Some people might consider only climbing this to the 2-bolt anchor for this reason.
I did not see any pins protecting a left start, as mentioned by Stewart.
I climbed this today by climbing up to the Nose roof, clipping a blue sling fixed to a piton and wired nut underneath the roof, then traversing left under a nice flake to the large ledge on the corner of the formation and beneath the Alabama. I belayed here off a fixed piton, and a couple cams (1", 1/2") to avoid rope drag for the upper section.
There are some scary loose blocks above the 2-bolt anchor which could seriously injure your belayer or possibly damage the rope if they were dislodged. Some people might consider only climbing this to the 2-bolt anchor for this reason.
I did not see any pins protecting a left start, as mentioned by Stewart.
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