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Routes in Steve's ZZ Boulders

Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: T. Melin
Page Views: 3,332 total, 32/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Mar 27, 2009
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Every move is classic on this new Dodge testpeice. Super complex sequencing, burly moves, complete with a highball topout. This route may rival Sandstone Violence in both quality and difficulty.

Sit down start under a bulge, move up staying on the left side of the arete.

Location

Right arete on tallest grouping of boulders

Protection

Pads, and spotters. Landing is built up with logs, make sure to have good pad coverage over this stuff. Use Extra Caution topping out. It is too tall to clean without a rap line, thus there is still the possibility of loose blocks up there. Knock check holds before pulling hard on them.
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
I was on top of this thing forever... Prolly 10 minutes or so post-gaining good holds. Just didnt trust anything I was grabbing or stepping on. That would not be a good fall. Apr 8, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7+
Full value boulder problem- heart pounding indeed! Trav, let us know how it goes, maybe a couple new epic Melin-Z problems? Apr 8, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
Better a tick filled bushwack now than in July when we were doing it last year. haha. I'd take my chances. Can't make it unfortunately but I will be psyched to hear (read) all about it.

As far as the problem goes I don't think I did any of the moves dynamically... Different beta I suppose Apr 8, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
if any of you guys are interested I think I am going to go look for Boulder 541 tomorrow afternoon. Me and dew found it running last fall...might be cool, or it might be a tick filled bushwhack. Apr 7, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
Killer job guys! You dudes are just ridiculously strong. So dynamic. Was that hold still a little dampish? Apr 7, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7-8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7-8
Nice Dobbe and Remo!! Yeah kind of a heart-pounder up top there... Taller than Backbone right? Apr 7, 2009
Dobbe
  V7-8
Dobbe  
  V7-8
Travis after what looked like we should send quick Remo and I back to back sent today after a rough start. Top is pretty scary. Apr 7, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7-8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7-8
Nic- last year was perfect sending until late May-- especially early in the day or the evening. Don't worry about Rhoads, he is nice guy, he just doesn't want you to know it, lot of bark but no bite!! ;)

Thanks Dobbe and Remo. So psyched to do this! Apr 1, 2009
Dobbe
  V7-8
Dobbe  
  V7-8
Nice work Sweaty and Chris. Hope to climb with you two soon. Four star route for sure! Apr 1, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
I suggest we pee on Nick Apr 1, 2009
I suggest that pissing match goes to the forum. Please. Mar 31, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
haha nice. It is quite fun though no matter the rating, and sincerely thank you for all the work you've been doing sir! Bravo Mar 31, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
good work on the fast repeats (and near repeats). You guys are just stinking strong. Sweaty as far as the rating I agree that it may be featherbagged. You see I am trying to leave my old sandy ways. Plus who doesnt like a little hype, or a soft route? Mar 31, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
for sure man! I can't wait to pull down with you guys again. Good luck sir. Mar 31, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7+
I do recall, and thanks for the beta man, it's going down next time! Mar 31, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
As you may recall, I also suffer from a height deficiency. So what I did was after you grab the 2nd left crimp I step left foot to the top of the left start hold and get my right heal around the arete (where your first handhold was). then I reach with my right and grabbed a small but good crimp right below that large slopey good feature. Feet are solid here. bump left hand about 3 inches to a perfect crimp side pull. From here u can bump up pretty casually to the good right hand ham-hock over the right side of the feature. Then you are good to go. Mar 31, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7+
Nice job Sweaty and Chris! We met Trav yesterday morning and gave this thing some good work, you probably just missed us. Neither Dobbe or I got the last hard move to the jug, (short dudes, and I broke a key foot) but we felt it was also in the V7 range. Gotta go back and finish it up- next time. Mar 31, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7-8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7-8
Yup I suck at finding problems/routes and also at spotting. Glad SteveZ was around to take multiple phone calls asking for directions! thanks Dude! Mar 31, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
Also, i agree with Chris about the pad coverage. Without the work you guys did it would be really bad. But you definately want to get some good coverage. The time before my send I fell going for the crimp below the good sloper feater that pretty much signals the end of the buisness. Landed on my heal pretty good, and could have definately been way worse for sure. Be safe ya'll. Mar 31, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
This thing was a whole bunch of fun! Travis all the work you've done up there is very appreciated man (that goes for anyone in your crew that helps out as well)!

I was able to really make it suit my strength which is heal hooking and was able to utilize them in 3 different spots. So it seemed tough to grade.

I gave it a 7+ but wouldn't be opposed to calling it easier if folks think is seems lower in that grade. Or even maybe I'm off and was just able to find good beta for me and it is actually harder than 7 that would be fine too. You know me, I'm a concensus team player :-)

Lots of fun, if you dont go down the wrong drainage and wander threw the thorny woods with you buddy Chris for 45 minutes... we suck at finding shit.

Mar 31, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7-8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7-8
This line is fun, beta intensive, and tall with a somewhat slopey landing that has been built up (thanks Travis and crew). However, I would recommend 2-3 pads and an attentive spot FWIW. I'm a bit of a weenie though. Looks like Sweatpants nabbed the 2nd ascent today, quickly put it together and had it dialed in short order! As usual, I beta-mooched and barely sent. Mar 30, 2009
Dobbe
  V7-8
Dobbe  
  V7-8
Very good problem. Remo, Vince and I got it all sauced out but no finish yet so close but need more skin. Nice send Travis. Mar 30, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
open offer indeed. But thurs weather is looking bad at the moment...maybe sat instead? Mar 29, 2009
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
Hmmm looks like I should have taken you up on your offer to come out on thurs. Nice work Travis you keep making my tick list longer Mar 28, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7+
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7+
I think I may be around the area if this is an open invite sir? Mar 28, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
Shoot man, I've got class and research going on monday. If I can make it down its usually only on a Thurs, or Friday afternoon... Mar 28, 2009
Dobbe
  V7-8
Dobbe  
  V7-8
Nice Travis, stuff looks so good!
Remo and I are going Monday, you in? Mar 28, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7+
Great job Trav! You have been busy. Keep it up man! Mar 28, 2009