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Routes in Upper Mound (main upper cluster of boulders)

Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: David Baltz, 1979
Page Views: 3,457 total, 32/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Feb 26, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

One of the taller lines at U-mound, though this would still barely qualify as a highball in many areas. Technical and insecure climbing to go along with a strong reputation still make this a desired tick.

There used to be an unstable plate about the size of a kitchen table that rocked back and forth in the landing area that has since migrated down the hill and settled.

Work up into the big underclings then ooze your way out to where you can grab the good hold over the lip with your left. Match briefly and reach up to a right crimp and match, now hoist your foot up over the lip onto the previous hold and some how reach out left to a hard to see sidepull. Work your way up crimpy side pulls until you can reach some rounded holds on top and start paddling.

Location

The obvious west facing plate at the right end of the biggest boulder in the main cluster.

Protection

Pads and spotter. A few pads are nice to have as is pre-inspecting the top out.

Photos

Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
Dave - English major - it has to be good for something, right? [BTW the offensive claws has been removed].

For the record the vid above is of the FA, done with no pads (what is a pad?) & barely any spotters (witness .20 onward) ... Dave & others had worked on it for months (or 'projected' as the kids say these days) ... the final send came on a louring winter day when I just happened to be there with my dad's super 8 camera ... not sure who first dubbed it the Manatee, we always just called it 'Dave's Problem' ... the name seems to fit, whoever came up with it.... Sep 18, 2015
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
V5 R
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
V5 R
"... and I sure hope Mike Head did it on-site - as opposed to, say, in his basement! "

Good catch Mark.
On-sight, not on-site. Jul 17, 2015
KevJ
  V4-5 PG13
KevJ  
  V4-5 PG13
Hey Jeremy,

No, but heard someone else did.

:) Mar 27, 2012
KevJ
  V4-5 PG13
KevJ  
  V4-5 PG13
Loved seeing it going down in the day...most likely with no pads. Makes me feel light duty.

Recently started going to the U again and noticed between visits that someone is intentionally destroying holds. Mar 26, 2012
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Sweet video! Post more. Feb 9, 2012
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
So you say, Dave, but where is their documentation ...

youtube.com/watch?v=vpYL-NS… Feb 9, 2012
Jarred Cleerdin  
  V3
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
V5 R
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
V5 R
I may have been the first one to do this one--circa 1979. P. Horak and Mark Leonard also worked on it about the same time. As I recall, Mike Head did it on-sight. Dec 5, 2009
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
That big rock was migrated as were other rocks over the years. Only took 3 to 4 people 15 minutes to get it to the present location. Feb 28, 2009