Flake Roof Indirect
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Mike Head and company. |
Page Views: | 797 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009 |
Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell |
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Description
This pitch starts from the same exposed and sloping ledge as for Flake Roof. Climb the hueco arete up past the right side of the roof.
To end the pitch there are two options. One finish is to step left to Flake Roof anchor. Piana's book advises placing a nut for a directional. The other finish is to continue up and right to the belay on True Grip. Then finish via the excellent second pitch of Flake Roof, 5.10. The left finish is nice for top roping the 5.11+. The right hand connection to Flake Roof is the recommended classic.
I liked the Indirect better than Flake Roof because the holds were more fun and the protection was better.
To end the pitch there are two options. One finish is to step left to Flake Roof anchor. Piana's book advises placing a nut for a directional. The other finish is to continue up and right to the belay on True Grip. Then finish via the excellent second pitch of Flake Roof, 5.10. The left finish is nice for top roping the 5.11+. The right hand connection to Flake Roof is the recommended classic.
I liked the Indirect better than Flake Roof because the holds were more fun and the protection was better.
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