Type: Boulder, 35 ft
FA: Dale Bard
Page Views: 2,945 total · 24/month
Shared By: Gaar on Feb 6, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Some say it is harder the HPD some say it is easier. I think it is easier.

Same start as HPD but go straight up. Long lock-off to good crimp, followed by pinches and a blind push to a decent sloper.

Protection

pad

Photos

Even though High Plains Drifter gets the most attention, I believe this problem the better line. It's direct, therefor less contrived, and has moves that are classic Buttermilk. Reachy and very dependent on conditions. Mar 4, 2009
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
FA: another Dale Bard old school classic. Mar 4, 2009
tcamillieri
Denver
  V6
tcamillieri   Denver
  V6
THE standard for V6. Sherman thought Change of Heart was High Plains Drifter in his Hueco Guide book that established the V-scale. Nov 30, 2009
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V6
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V6
tcam is correct - the old Bishop guidebook even had this one mixed up with High Plains Drifter hence the confusion. High Plains has always been the standard for V7 in the area and Change of Heart V6. Apr 5, 2013
Where's Walden  
  V6
This is an incredible line that defines Buttermilk style. I think Change of Heart to be on par with the most classic V6's in the Buttermilks in quality and difficulty. Mar 6, 2015