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Routes in Club Mex Wall

100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Battle Royale (1st pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blazing Saddles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Club Mex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Conflict S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devils Tongue, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fear of Flying S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gusada Negra S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lucy Goosy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Salty Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sour Grapes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Nova S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sword, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tami's Pillar S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegram for Mongo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Worm, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wright of Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Kurt Smith & Ned Harris - 1997
Page Views: 618 total, 6/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 25, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

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Description

This is a classic, technical tufa climb that is well worth the effort of getting up off the ground, even if you're just cragging at the Club Mex Wall.

P0: First, climb Fear Of Flying or Salty Dog and belay on the left end of the big ledge above these climbs.

P1: This is the money pitch. From the left end of the ledge climb up past two bolts to a scary, insecure stand-up move on top of a tufa to the third clip. Blowing the third clip will test even the most attentive belayer. From here on, things are safe. Climb up and gradually right through awesome tufas and crimps. Many decent rests and technical moves, with a definite crux in the homestretch. Belay at two bolts below a rooflet. Lowering back to the ledge requires a 70m rope!!! 5.12c, 120'.

P2: There is another pitch that climbs above the roof and ends in the middle of nowhere. It actually is possible to join up with the 5th pitch of Thunderkiss, but rapping back down again is very difficult unless you have two ropes. I've heard rumors that rockfall has made this pitch harder than it's original 5.12b rating, and it didn't look very engaging, but who knows???

Protection

14 bolts plus the anchor. 70m cord.

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