Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brian McCray
Page Views: 1,513 total · 13/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 8, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

If you like sustained crimping and technical climbing on a vertical wall, you will love this route.

Start up the moderate 10+ or so, low angle face with a thought provoking move or so. The line trends to the right here before heading straight up once on the headwall. Rest up below the headwall on nice jugs, and get ready for the difficulties ahead. Continue up on a slightly wondering path utilizing crimps and sidepulls, on continuous climbing. Just before the anchors the angle backs off reducing the difficulty a bit. Definitely possible to get some air-time here.

Location

Between "Blazing Saddles" and "Salty Dog" Two routes left of the obvious Tufa route "Conflict"

Protection

Guide says 12 Bolts to Anchors, I think there may have been a few less. The route is aptly named and is definitely possible to take some nice whippers.

Photos

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This climb is one of the more consistent 12a's in all of Potrero. It climbs VERY similar to its neighbor Salty Dog with lots of thought provoking moves. Couldn't really tell where the crux is but there are some tricky sequences for sure for only being a 12a. There was alot of the same size crimps and the occasional slopey blocky sidepull. The route seems to be difficult to read for the onsight and doesn't have the most straight forward climbing. Hence, requiring you to think a little. Great fun!! Salty Dog to the right has a tattoo on the wall with it's name, this is the only way I knew what I was getting on on the Club Mex Wall given that all the climbs looks the same and are in the 12a-12c range. Look for the Salty Dog Logo in gold and blue and its one route to the left.... Mar 13, 2012
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.12a
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.12a
One of my favorite routes at Potrero. It has a really nice flow to it with no throw-away climbing. The crux is also tricky to read! Jan 8, 2016
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12b
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
  5.12b
This rig is absolutely bangin. For the technical face climbing connoisseur. Sustained and interesting. Not too polished unlike Pangea. The Enchilada guide book has a good description on how to find it (no topo though).

Five stars, best single pitch route I got on at Potrero! Jan 10, 2016
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This is the best pitch I've done at Potrero in two trips. If you're into technical, crimpy face climbing make sure you don't miss this one. Jan 19, 2018