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Routes in Energy Crag

Armchair V1-2 5
Crucifix Dyno V3 6A
Crucifriction V6- 7A
Curb, The V2 5+
Energy V5- 6C
Hands and Fist Crack V0-1 4+
Less Than Thievery V4 6B
No Energy V6 7A
Snarl V1+ 5
Thievery V8 7B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 7 ft
FA: Jim Hausmann, 1999 or 2000?
Page Views: 1,539 total, 14/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jan 2, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fine problem with a nasty top-out that will have you wishing for more energy. It is located to the right of Hands and Fist Crack.

Start with your left hand in an under-clinging three finger pocket and your right on a crimp. Bring your feet up on to a slab. Then move your right up to a sloping pinch type feature and then gun with your left into a large dish with a paralyzing, mantel finish. Take care with your foot positing when negotiating the final mantel, because it could be your undoing.

Location

Its location is at the Energy Wall, right of Hands and Fist Crack.

Protection

None.

Photos

- No Photos -
Agreed with Ian... started RH undercling, LH crossed over on crimp. LH to hamhock, right hand to badge/jug, then matched and moved into the dish and topped out. Very fun. May 1, 2017
If you switch 'left' and 'right' every time they appear in the description, it is an exact description of what I did when I thought I may have been climbing "Energy." Apr 18, 2012
The F.A. of this problem was done by Jim Hausmann in 1999 or early 2000 at the latest. May 14, 2009
Ryko
  V4
Ryko  
  V4
Consensus with my friends and I was V4. And you can hit the tree if you miss the bad sloping thing up top. Jan 30, 2009
Hey Jason,
I don't remember any possibility of hitting a tree? I have not been to the area or done the problem in over 5 years. However, it does have a sloping top-out. It's like mantling into a dish-like feature. I can't see the line in any of your posted photos Jason, but it is to the right of the tree.
It may be a V4, but I gave it a V5 because I found the mantel quite hard. Maybe I have poor mantle technique? I am not great at grading problems. My grades are only a suggestion. I have done hundreds of problems in that range, but still it is only my suggestion.
I have loads of problems documented. (maybe 150-200?) I will formulate a more accurate count once I began documentation. I am planing to take my own photos of the problems/areas known to me and post them soon.
I know of many more problems/areas than I have seen posted or published thus far. The task should be interesting. Jan 8, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Is this the problem that a fall most likely will land you on the tree? starting near the crack, traverse out up and right to a awkward sloping mantle? I got this problem one day, I was told V4 ish. I don't climb V5, or at least I didn't think I did. Jan 6, 2009