Avg: 3.9 from 17 votes
|Type:||Boulder, 14 ft|
|Page Views:||5,572 total, 51/month|
|Shared By:||Luke Childers on Jan 2, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the best line at The Energy Wall. It is steep, powerful, technical, dynamic and beautiful. It's also quite tall. Climb the orange-colored wall right of a pronounced crack located next to a pine tree.
S.D.S. with your hands in a nice in-cut jug. Make sure your hands are placed in the correct order before starting out or you are sure to have victory stolen from you.
When ready, aggressively bump up to a small, right hand crimp with a pinky catch then quickly make a long toss (again with your right hand) to a small, sloping, horizontal seam. Move your left foot on to a nice tip-like foot hold located on your starting hold.
Next bring up your left had up into a match and quickly switch feet. Get your left foot in a good back step position and toss up and left into a two finger, pocket-type feature.
Steady yourself for the grand finally and explode upwards (2-3 foot dyno) with your right hand to snag an in-cut jug.
Now that the hard part is over get a shake and finish by pushing on to easier but committing climbing to the finish. Possibly the best problem at The Sisters.
If the sequence is not done in a fairly precise way, it will surely seem much harder. Also a big key to sending this sweet heart is good momentum.
This problem is also much harder if you are short. The taller you are the easier this one will probably feel.