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Routes in Energy Crag

Armchair V1-2 5
Crucifix Dyno V3 6A
Crucifriction V6- 7A
Curb, The V2 5+
Energy V5- 6C
Hands and Fist Crack V0-1 4+
Less Than Thievery V4 6B
No Energy V6 7A
Snarl V1+ 5
Thievery V8 7B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: Phillip Benningfield
Page Views: 5,572 total, 51/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jan 2, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the best line at The Energy Wall. It is steep, powerful, technical, dynamic and beautiful. It's also quite tall. Climb the orange-colored wall right of a pronounced crack located next to a pine tree.

S.D.S. with your hands in a nice in-cut jug. Make sure your hands are placed in the correct order before starting out or you are sure to have victory stolen from you.

When ready, aggressively bump up to a small, right hand crimp with a pinky catch then quickly make a long toss (again with your right hand) to a small, sloping, horizontal seam. Move your left foot on to a nice tip-like foot hold located on your starting hold.

Next bring up your left had up into a match and quickly switch feet. Get your left foot in a good back step position and toss up and left into a two finger, pocket-type feature.

Steady yourself for the grand finally and explode upwards (2-3 foot dyno) with your right hand to snag an in-cut jug.

Now that the hard part is over get a shake and finish by pushing on to easier but committing climbing to the finish. Possibly the best problem at The Sisters.

If the sequence is not done in a fairly precise way, it will surely seem much harder. Also a big key to sending this sweet heart is good momentum.

This problem is also much harder if you are short. The taller you are the easier this one will probably feel.

Location

Its location is The Energy Wall. It is on the steep, orange-colored wall left of a pronounced crack and pine tree.

Protection

None.
Energy Crag, I believe named by Jim Hausman, is between The Brothers and The Sisters. Mar 2, 2012
JasonT
  V8
JasonT  
  V8
So, in Benningfield's new guide, he calls this a V6 which is weird because he has the FA. I thought it was definitely V8 and at the least hard V7. I'm calling BS!! Feb 29, 2012
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  V9
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  V9
Will,
I'm sure someone here will have better directions than this as I've only been there once, but... from Prince Charles if you look SWish (down the hill and a bit to your right), you'll see some flat rock slabs kind of across the gully. Really roughly maybe a hundred-ish yards away. These are the top of the Thievery area, though you won't be able to see the problems as they face away from you (when looking from PC). If you wander over to those slabs and scramble down the other side, just scan that cliff band and you'll find it. Hope that helps, happy sending. Feb 28, 2012
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
How do you get to this problem from say Prince Charles? I searched all over the place the last time I was there and couldn't find Thievery. Feb 27, 2012
Squish
Lakewood
Squish   Lakewood
I just worked on this problem for the first time tonight. This has to be the hardest boulder problem I've ever worked on. The video looks like the dude is using the slabs to start and also he is like 6'5". Both Luke and Darth are correct. This line is beautiful and also f*&#ing hard as piss! I can tell this is going to be a long term proj for me.... Jul 9, 2010
Andy Librande
Denver, CO
Andy Librande   Denver, CO
There is a video of the problem over at modump: modump.com/videos/weekly/th… Jul 9, 2010
Yes...the slab was never to be used as starting feet at the bottom. Besides the feet for the start are very apparent and putting your feet on the really flat slab is almost like having your feet on the ground!!! Great problem. I've always thought it a solid V8 myself. More like old school V8!! So good!! Nice send, Jason!! Wish I would have been there, man. May 21, 2010
misha zavalov
Boulder, Co.
misha zavalov   Boulder, Co.
I agree, Darth. The problem is sick as balls.... I have yet to send it. May 21, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
So, I finally sent this rig today, and it is the best problem in 3 Sisters. Absolutely stellar!!! May 20, 2010
Did this one again about a week or two ago and even knowing all the moves it still took me all day with many tries!!! It was hard back in 1999-2000 and it's still hard in 2009!!! So, I have officially changed my rating to V8. Call me crazy, but I think it's that hard. Either way it's one of the best line at the Sisters!! Jun 19, 2009
I am not sure but I believe I got the 2nd or 3rd ascent of this line in 2000. I felt that it was more like (V8) at the time. I still feel that it compares to the Flatirons, Satellite classic " Face Full of Brian (V8)." (V6) seems quite stiff for this one!!! I could go with hard (V7). Really it's difficulty is very height dependent!! Great problem for sure.

LUKE CHILDERS May 14, 2009
Andy Librande
Denver, CO
Andy Librande   Denver, CO
Picture of the problem is here: mountainproject.com/v/color… Apr 24, 2009
henrydec1
denver, colorado
henrydec1   denver, colorado
Can I see a picture? Sounds fun. Apr 17, 2009