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Routes in Mezzanine

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Doug Rouse
Page Views: 685 total, 6/month
Shared By: doug rouse on Jan 1, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Super Sloper moves past some very cool holds to a nice easy climb-off. From a foot-long sloping ramp low, and near the east end of Green Energy, pull straight up with the right hand to a gnarly sloping hold on the lip of the bulge, bring up the left to an arete squeeze about 1-foot left of the R hand. Bring the feet, then pop the right hand to a 3"-wide 1st pad ledge up and right of the right hand. Viola.

Location

The start is off of the second hold along the Green Energy Traverse.

Protection

Pad, spotter.

Photos

doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
I added the start to this from My Girlfriends a Tweaker/Geo Thermal, right into the Nodule holds. I am thinking solid at the grade now.... Jun 2, 2009
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  V5-
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
  V5-
I just sent it using these holds, and although it is still fun, it is not as hard as using the other start. Still some interesting movement. Would be better if it were more moves and weren't as contrived. Good problem! May 15, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
Pretty insecure starting hold, that I also use on Green Energy. Just left of this hold are two small "finger buckets" that have also been used for the start, and I believe would not affect the grade. These two holds are the point where you shoot the large dyno on Green Energy to the rail, and make for a place to start Super Sloper from. You still have full value in body tension, and cling factor! May 5, 2009
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  V5-
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
  V5-
The start hold for this climb is about to break off. In addition, someone broke off the loose foothold for the start, making it very hard to do the first move (for me, at least). The climb might not exist in a couple of months. May 3, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
To aid in the location of this line..On the Mezzanine home page Falcon's left foot is on the starting holds, and his left hand is about 3" to the right of the 1st hold that the Right hand moves to. The left comes up to the arete/sloper about 14" left of the right hand. Up from there to a small edge above the right hand. Mar 25, 2009