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Routes in Mezzanine

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Doug Rouse
Page Views: 66 total, 1/month
Shared By: doug rouse on Apr 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

An independant line from a sit start on a pair of small crimps way down low. Fire up with the R hand to a small sloping finger bucket located up and right of the start. Bring the L hand up to the sloping lip of the overhang, match, and power up the remaining slab, using only holds on the slab, to a nice finishing ledge at 10-12'.

Location

Located just left of the middle of Green Energy.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  V6
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
  V6
So I gave up on moving my right hand and just committed to tossing for the lip, and V4 seems reasonable for the grade. To start, I put my left foot on a marginal hold and use a painful right dropknee. When I hit the lip, my feet cut, and i have to struggle to stay on. I wish it was a bit longer, but it was still fun. I will have to check out Atomic when I go back. Good work! Sep 1, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
Hey Mike. Yes, the picture of me to the right of the text shows the sloping, finger bucket being used with the right hand. I started right hand about 12" right of the current left hand...going direct seems easier than moving over to the right hand, then the rail, and has been given the name My Girlfriends a Tweaker.... I thought to suggest V4 for M.G.a T.... Let me know what you think.... Thanks, Young Doug. May 5, 2009
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  V6
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
  V6
Starting on the two small crimps down low, all variations of this route felt to be in the V5-V6 range. I am worried I am not starting it in the right place. Is the climber in the picture shown on the second move (the sloping finger bucket)? May 3, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
Sent this again yesterday, and found that going straight to the lip from the starting holds was probably V4 ( My Girlfriends a Tweaker )...so this becomes a fun contrivance...enjoy. Apr 8, 2009