Geo Thermal [Edit]

Sent this again yesterday, and found that going straight to the lip from the starting holds was probably V4 ( My Girlfriends a Tweaker )...so this becomes a fun contrivance...enjoy. Apr 8, 2009

Starting on the two small crimps down low, all variations of this route felt to be in the V5-V6 range. I am worried I am not starting it in the right place. Is the climber in the picture shown on the second move (the sloping finger bucket)? May 3, 2009

Hey Mike. Yes, the picture of me to the right of the text shows the sloping, finger bucket being used with the right hand. I started right hand about 12" right of the current left hand...going direct seems easier than moving over to the right hand, then the rail, and has been given the name My Girlfriends a Tweaker.... I thought to suggest V4 for M.G.a T.... Let me know what you think.... Thanks, Young Doug. May 5, 2009

So I gave up on moving my right hand and just committed to tossing for the lip, and V4 seems reasonable for the grade. To start, I put my left foot on a marginal hold and use a painful right dropknee. When I hit the lip, my feet cut, and i have to struggle to stay on. I wish it was a bit longer, but it was still fun. I will have to check out Atomic when I go back. Good work! Sep 1, 2009