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Routes in Mezzanine

Type: Boulder
FA: Doug Rouse
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: doug rouse on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

From the Tier where Green Energy is located, continue west about 45-50 feet. Cold Fusion starts under a bulging wall with a sit start. The starting holds are very small and can be found on a rounded feature just above the ground. Pop up and right to a vertical feature that is about 16" long. Next go up and left with the left hand to a crimp/arete hold about 40" above/left of the right hand. Pop the right up a little, then go left up to a sharp crimp also on the left arete. Cross through underneath with the right hand to a small crimp up and left of the left hand, and traverse off.

Location

This is 45-50' west of Green Energy Traverse.

Protection

Pad and a spotter.

Photos

Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Cold Fusion? Nov 5, 2013
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
I was up there with Bob W. Rufus M, and "old" Doug..all of them seemed to think the problem was underrated at V5.... The lower arete hold has changed...it is now smaller, and harder to squeeze. The biggest problem still seemed to be in getting off the ground. A new variant is being worked that goes right from the starting holds, to the vertical rail, and up and right to a sloper. Should be pretty heinous when it goes. Jun 1, 2010
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
Sent it using the heelhook beta...surprised I missed that! Nice. Feb 1, 2010
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
I'll have to look for the hook.... I was using a right drop knee on the edge along the lip, and the left underneath on a nice edge. You're right though...it totally needs to be longer.... Sep 15, 2009
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  V5-
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
  V5-
Not sure how you start this one, but I use a right heel hook which makes the first move much easier. I hook in a tiny edge down and to the right of the right hand hold. I figure that may be the discrepancy between our grades. Really cool problem though. 5 feet longer with a topout and this would be 4 stars. Sep 1, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
 
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
 
The roof above awaits an ascent...bring pads and spotters! Apr 8, 2009