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Routes in Jaws Block/West Side Rock

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heave Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kitty Litter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
O.M.I. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plate Roof TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shut Out! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Six Toes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin in the Middle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Chick Holtkamp - 1980
Page Views: 950 total, 9/month
Shared By: Rob Dodson on Dec 1, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

This route is found just to the left of the sport route named Heave Ho! Start at Heave Ho! and trend left and then up. About 15 feet up, trend back to the right until underneath a small roof with a 2" crack. Pull the roof via the crack (crux) and then cruise to the anchors. This route is a bit run out between the 1st and 2nd pieces, then sews up with bomber gear. Great moves on a route that doesn't seem to get its share of traffic.

Location

Shares start with Heave Ho; directly in front of a boulder passage from the Pinnacle/Holiday Block areas.

Protection

Very small cams up to #2 Camelot. The anchor is fixed.

Photos

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gus Fontenot
Alabama
gus Fontenot   Alabama
Rob, for whatever reasons, this is one of the few climbs I have been unable to send (on TR mind you)...tough on short fat guys (there is your reason)...favors the tall (to reach high instead of jam) or those who can take the piss (hang & pull on a fist jam in congomerate rock). Dec 4, 2008