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Routes in Jaws Block/West Side Rock

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heave Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kitty Litter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
O.M.I. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plate Roof TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shut Out! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Six Toes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin in the Middle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,362 total, 11/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jun 16, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

This obscure route is a worthwhile trad lead amongst the short sport routes on the West Side Rock, with a challenging start and good protection.

Boulder up the slightly overhanging face to a somewhat slopey horizontal seam, then follow the path of least resistance to the top. The harder bottom section gives way to easier ground with plenty of features.

Location

Starts just left of Thin in the Middle. Rap from the anchors.

Protection

Good nut placements and cams up to #2 camalot or equivalent. Bolted anchors with quicklinks at the top.

Photos

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Will Carney
Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.7+ PG13
Will Carney   Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.7+ PG13
I agree. Probably not a great 1st TRAD lead. I was 20' up and slightly overhung for the first nut. Sep 2, 2014
James Ruch  
 
The gear placements are not as obvious as on other 7's. This is not a route for a first trad lead, but a fun climb none the less. Feb 28, 2011
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
The upper section is casual climbing, but the lower half is a serious lead. Pulling the bulge with thin pro and unintuitive moves got my adrenaline going. Jul 29, 2007