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Routes in Jaws Block/West Side Rock

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heave Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kitty Litter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
O.M.I. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plate Roof TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shut Out! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Six Toes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin in the Middle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg
Page Views: 392 total · 14/month
Shared By: Lohan on Oct 26, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Maybe the gnarliest climb at sand rock. Because you are near Holiday Block and Boy Scout wall, be ready for crowds to attract and ask questions like, "Is he stuck? Did he fall in? Do you want us to drop a rope to get you out?" Scramble 15 feet of very easy terrain to place some gear. The "sport climbing" crux is pulling into the base of the slot. From here, a hand jam and some squirming get your upper body established into the squeeze. Now, place some big gear, decide which way you want to face (because you won't be able to turn your head once you move up) and try harder than you've ever conceived of trying on a 10a, or anything, ever really. Hope you tied your knot low, wore long sleeves, racked gear on the proper side, and ate lots of salads recently. If you reach the chockstone you are home free. Enjoy.

Location

wide crack left of A Little Help From My Friends. Starts in a corridor.

Protection

.75 and maybe a .4 for the face crux. #2 for the base of the slot (although it may interfere with a hand jam), and a #4 and #5. Bring slings to utilize horns as an anchor at the top. Walk off.

Photos

Austin Howell
Atlanta, Georgia
Austin Howell   Atlanta, Georgia
Should also probably bring a #75 and a #22 for inside the slot. Nov 29, 2015

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