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Routes in Gnat Man Crag

Bottoms up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Day of the Jackholes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of the Jackholes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gnat Man on Ranch Hands T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knock the Bottom Out of It T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
P-Coat Junction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P-Coat Sleeve 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia
Page Views: 1,026 total · 8/month
Shared By: MJW on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Start just left of Bottoms Up below a patch of varnish. Climb slabby wall past 4 bolts. Easy up high. Crux is getting to the first bolt. The move is committing and awkward. I got a "good" RP in a seam by the large hole/pocket. Good climbing past the bolts.

Location

Start just left of Bottoms Up. Descent is the same as the other routes on this wall

Protection

Bolts. Optional sz(0/1)RP to protect move getting to the first bolt.

Photos

Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
 
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
 
Good but not great route. The bolts are few but well placed so the climbing doesn't feel bold. Definitely bring a few small cams for the 5.easy top section or be prepared for a massive runout on friable rock. Oct 14, 2013
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
 
Without an RP, I got in a good small BD stopper, though the rock wasn't. Blowing the committing crux likely means decking. It's equitable to a boulder problem with an uneven hard landing. Spot, belay, or both? Feb 2, 2016
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10a PG13
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10a PG13
i used a #4 TCU in a shallow parallel that was probably too low to help. i saw the RP placement but it's pretty damn small and less than a foot above the TCU. the climbing is excellent. Nov 5, 2016
Just wanted to make it clear that the entire lower section is just pretty spaced-out bolts. No real chances for supplemental pro. A small cam or two (I used a single yellow #2 TCU) in some horizontal cracks up high will protect you on the extremely easy topout in case an edge blows under hand or foot. Nov 24, 2017

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