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Routes in Gnat Man Crag

Bottoms up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gnat Man on Ranch Hands T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knock the Bottom Out of It T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
P-Coat Junction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P-Coat Sleeve 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: George & Catriona Reid, Todd & Donette Swain; October 1994.
Page Views: 2,390 total, 15/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Oct 28, 2004 with updates
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Good crack, good pro, spicy crux (for 5.7 anyway).

Bottoms Up is the well defined left-facing crack located on the right side of Gnat Man Crag. Negotiate a tricky start in a clean corner, then head up the classic crack, place some good pro below the bulge and head left and up to the next crack. Follow the 2nd crack as it angles right. Setup an anchor after the rock angle eases.

The bulge is definitely the mental crux, because there isn't any pro until you reach the 2nd crack.

I think this climb is about 120 feet high.

Descent: Head right/west until you find easy 3rd class terrain to scramble back to the valley floor. It is possible to down climb into the same narrow gully used on the approach, but this involves 4th class down climbing. In any event, you will need to re-climb the same 4th class approach you initially used to get back to the base of Gnat Man Crag and your packs.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot.

Photos

KayJ
 
KayJ  
 
Pretty burly and committing start for a 5.7 if you stay in corner but I did not see a better way to do it because the best holds are in the corner. I had no problem placing good pro, including a nut before the bulge. Eases out at the right leaning flake. Looks like someone added anchors, not listed in the guide book, about 10 feet below the true summit. Maybe the anchors were for the mixed route to the left but easy to use them for this route if you don't want to walk off or both partners want to lead this route. Walk off easy. Really fun route! Dec 27, 2015
John Brown
  5.7+ PG13
John Brown  
  5.7+ PG13
5.7 start? lol yeah right! you can bs the tourists but I'm onto your sandbag bruh =). awesome crack and top crux going left gave me a thrill up my leg! 21 hours ago
First Track Jack
Colorado
First Track Jack   Colorado
Solid route and well protected. 5.7 rating is on... Third class approach to higher tier and cold in the shade... Mar 1, 2017
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
The "so called crux", I didn't think was the crux as the climbing was consistent and it protected well. As Idaho Bob stated there a multiple options for passive gear. Fun route, definitely worth jumping on. Nov 17, 2014
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.7+
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.7+
Possible to protect the crux with a blue BD nut. I called it 5.7+ due to the starting moves. May 16, 2014
Jack J
Las Vegas, NV
 
Jack J   Las Vegas, NV
 
Started lead to the right of the base of the climb. I don't think this is a 5.7 if you start at the true start of the crack. 40 feet up, the hump with no protection is exciting. From the top hike west, and I descended the second gully that is a little class 4. Not the side with the big 127-hour looking boulder. I think most people keep hiking past this gully to an easier down climb. Feb 4, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7 PG13
Thrilling moves left and up out of the alcove really make this route. Mar 13, 2011