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Routes in Summit Blocks - East (Main)

Across The Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arriba Su Vientre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caveman Television T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dig A Pony S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dig It S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eaks it Out T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes to Fresno T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Worth the Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lim’s Cramp Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sunnyside T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vance’s Vertical Vent T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,328 total · 11/month
Shared By: John Knight on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep, thin start leads to a fun mantle onto a big ledge. The lower portion feels a bit like Shadow. This makes a nice connecting route to the summit after climbing Garden Party, Dark Side or any of the P-Wall routes. Can easily be set up as a top rope if you don't want to lead it.

I would call this a "soft 5.9". The only 5.9 move is in the first 10' off the ground. The rest is 5.8 or easier. This would be a good climb for a 5.8 leader wanting to break into 5.9.

After climbing in the shadows of the far right side of P-Wall, a transition to Sunnyside provides a nice sunny route with great views.

The poison oak at the base is not as bad as rumored.

Location

Wander from the top of P-Wall westerly to the base of Sunnyside & look up. You should be looking at a clean, steep wall with the summit blocks directly above you. If you're looking at a big, dirty crack you're too far to the right.

Protection

Mix of draws and a bit of gear to protect the mantle move. Runout but easy at the top.

Photos

The base of this climb is chock full of poison oak, however, there is a nice boulder on which to stand and belay. The helpful tip is to clip a long sling (36"+) off the first bolt and flake your rope over that...This is a good climb that is worth a 'high maintenance' belay. Nov 5, 2008
Bryan Carroll
Los Osos, CA
Bryan Carroll   Los Osos, CA
This is a really fun lead, and if you want to protect the runout after bolt four, bring a few small cams. If you are feeling up for a fun adventure, lead Grotto 5.6 (follow trail west past dark side of P-wall. Grotto is worth the short hike, John Knight also put in some sweet new bolts) then scramble up to sunnyside. Jun 5, 2010
John Knight  
5.9-
Just to clarify the "new bolts" added to Grotto were replacing the old 1/4" bolts Pete Gulyash placed on lead 20 something years ago. The bolts were replaced in the exact same holes as the old bolts. Jun 11, 2010
A Johnson
Atascadero
 
A Johnson   Atascadero
 
After bolt four if you're looking to at least feel better protected you can get in a 1, .5, and a .75 in pretty good spots as you ascend. Nov 4, 2017
How old are the anchor bolts? They are looking rusty to me and I was curious how long they have aged. Mar 31, 2018
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
^^^^
The FA was 2008. Apr 1, 2018

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