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Routes in Summit Blocks - East (Main)

Across The Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arriba Su Vientre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caveman Television T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dig A Pony S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dig It S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eaks it Out T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes to Fresno T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Worth the Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lim’s Cramp Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sunnyside T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vance’s Vertical Vent T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,212 total · 11/month
Shared By: John Knight on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep, thin start leads to a fun mantle onto a big ledge. The lower portion feels a bit like Shadow. This makes a nice connecting route to the summit after climbing Garden Party, Dark Side or any of the P-Wall routes. Can easily be set up as a top rope if you don't want to lead it.

I would call this a "soft 5.9". The only 5.9 move is in the first 10' off the ground. The rest is 5.8 or easier. This would be a good climb for a 5.8 leader wanting to break into 5.9.

After climbing in the shadows of the far right side of P-Wall, a transition to Sunnyside provides a nice sunny route with great views.

The poison oak at the base is not as bad as rumored.

Location

Wander from the top of P-Wall westerly to the base of Sunnyside & look up. You should be looking at a clean, steep wall with the summit blocks directly above you. If you're looking at a big, dirty crack you're too far to the right.

Protection

Mix of draws and a bit of gear to protect the mantle move. Runout but easy at the top.

Photos

A Johnson
Paso Robles
 
A Johnson   Paso Robles
 
After bolt four if you're looking to at least feel better protected you can get in a 1, .5, and a .75 in pretty good spots as you ascend. Nov 4, 2017
Just to clarify the "new bolts" added to Grotto were replacing the old 1/4" bolts Pete Gulyash placed on lead 20 something years ago. The bolts were replaced in the exact same holes as the old bolts. Jun 11, 2010
Bryan Carroll
Los Osos, CA
Bryan Carroll   Los Osos, CA
This is a really fun lead, and if you want to protect the runout after bolt four, bring a few small cams. If you are feeling up for a fun adventure, lead Grotto 5.6 (follow trail west past dark side of P-wall. Grotto is worth the short hike, John Knight also put in some sweet new bolts) then scramble up to sunnyside. Jun 5, 2010
The base of this climb is chock full of poison oak, however, there is a nice boulder on which to stand and belay. The helpful tip is to clip a long sling (36"+) off the first bolt and flake your rope over that...This is a good climb that is worth a 'high maintenance' belay. Nov 5, 2008